upper Rebuffat route

This is the upper part of the Rebuffat route. We found that this topo was good for the beginning of the route, but not so good for the end. That topo picture is taken from the base, so the upper route is foreshortenend, and it also makes it appear like the route ends with some easy 5.6 traverse off to the left.

In fact, the upper part of the route remains very high quality, but also a bit more difficult than 5.6. This picture shows the upper part of the route, starting at a belay that I have labelled "A". From "A" to "B" is a nice pitch, probably 5.8 with the exception of a short but very steep corner which has a fixed nut. You can aid using this nut, or climb the section free at about 5.10a/6a. Farther on the pitch, you reach a chimney/dihedral that is very steep and has fixed gear; instead of going up this, move left to a block and find a bolt anchor (labelled "B" in the photo).

From "B", go down and left a few feet to reach a gully. Here you have options. You can continue to belay "C" (either go straight across and traverse another small gully, or go down 20 feet, traverse, and re-ascend; the latter option was not so good for us because the 2nd gulley was full of snow and ascending on the face was a bit loose). Or, you can climb the little ridge between the two gulleys and head for belay "F". We saw a guide on the route, and he said that going left (closer to belay "C") was more "classic Rebuffat".

If you can, avoid belay "C" because although it is bolted, it's an uncomfortable stance, so better to make a lower belay or link "B" to "D" in one long pitch.

The crack/dihedral from "C" to "D" is amazing. It's about 5.8 PG, and wide, but low angle and very fun. A #3 camalot worked for the lower section (move it up with you), then the crack gets bigger, but later a crack on the right joins is and the protection is better.

The guide said another option is to join the pitch from "C" to "D" at the half-way point by climbing the diagonal slanting crack. He said it's not well protected but not too hard.

From "D", you can rap to the station, or continue up to "E" (5.6 or so face climbing, with some bolts and metal rods) and rappel from there if you want to rappel down to the base.


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