Planned to traverse North - South. But after two nights in the saddle and decided to come back across the North.
Photo and story http://poddubnov.com/svaneti/
With Tato Nadiradze (Georgia).
We climbed to the summit!!!
Excellent weather. Fantastic group. Outstanding view.
And specially best guides – Idris Khergiani & Alex Trubachev from Alexclimb school.
Got extremely lucky between two terrible storms and climbed North Ushba by the Classic ridge with a group of 8 people!! 7 hours from plateau, route in excellent condition, good firn and ice, some cornices on the ridge but comparably safe. No access from Russian side - the Ushba icefall is unclimbable
Hit of rock. No summit.
With two clients climbed until the beginning of the Crest and decided not to go further because of the very dangerous snow conditions. Snow was deep and soft, no possible ways to organize secure belaying. Great snow cornices to the South side. The Ushba icefall was quite easy but two days before us there happened gigantic avalanche which begun just in the upper seracs and covered all the icefall to the glacier at its beginning
I have climbed this peak in 2004 with my friend Tori (both of us from Romania) and I have to say that if you are lucky (with snow conditions) this route is nice ice climbing route. If you go in Caucasus and you are fit enough it`s a shame to not try this peak.
In Schelda valley we have meet Alex and I have to say that is a nice person and if you need a guide in the area contact him.
In 2002 I climbed with my Georgian friends the South Ushba and we fastened to a granite teeth on the top the metal plate which was dedicated to 70th birthday of Mikhail Khergiani - famous Georgian climber and national hero of Georia who has died in Italian Alps in 1969.