It's the easiest route to climb Maupas and the normal but the access is longest for the people in Spain.
See the main page about the sonsiderations of the use of refuge of Maupas.
Slope: 2000 meters
Time to summit: 5h 45 min (3h 15 min to refuge and 2h 30 min to the summit)
See the main page to approach to Valley of Lis
We'll begin crossing the river in entry of the parking and we follow the path #40 (signalled with a yellow circle) across a hard slope in the forest of beeches. After the forest we'll reach a grassy plateau and we'll turn to left (north) leaving the route to waterfall of Enfer in right side. Always we'll follow the red paint of route of refuge of Maupas (in many occasions joined to the green of Lac Vert and the bleu of Lac Bleu). The itinerary goes across the grassy ground among a lot of flowers and little rivers, and ascent across the ravine. We'll cross some bridges before to arrive to the plateau Prat Long. In the area of cable way, we'll get a path in zigzag with very hard slope near of the tube and the cables. Some indications in red paint in the column show the entry of refuge de Maupas (3h30min).
From the refuge we'll walk near of Lac d’Enfer across son spuns of rock, with use of the hands. In a chaotic karstic area we'll see the Tussé de Maupas (rocky cone) and behind the summit of Maupas (ridge sharped). We'll have 2 options from there:
a)- we'll follow to north across Tussé de Maupas (2900m) in a long itinerary of rocks, very easy, grade I (only use of the hands) to reach this little summit before to descent to the little glacier.
b)-we'll go to left side (west) and we'll evitate the Tussé de Maupas. We'll try to search the way to right when we’ll walk under this peak and we'll reach the little glacier.
In the glacier under the ridge NW we'll search the second chimney, from the right, to reach the ridge. Before it's necessary to climb one wall inclinated of I+ to reach the very easy chimney (I). It's the “malpas”, origin of the name of the peak. The most direct option it's to take the edge of the ridge (grade I) to the upper side. The last part is exposed and we'll leave the ridge to enter in the west slopes (30-35º with snow) and finally the short chimney (grade I) to the summit of Maupas (3109m). Wonderful landscape!
Access to "Malpas"
-Nothing special in summer and autumn if the snow is evitable in the access to Malpas (a good option is to use the telephone of the refuge of Maupas to had the information about the conditions).
-Spring: crampons, ice-axe (the approach from the refuge to Tussé de Maupas, the walk under Tussé of Maupas, the access to the malpas and the west slopes of Maupas contain generally snow in may-june)
-Winter: crampons, ice-axe. If the Malpas is covered with snow (35º) it's possible what you need the use of rope and harness in this stepcrossing and even in the access to the summit (north face, the ice is possible).
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