Took the one day option directly fromthe hut in Llaca valley. Started around 1 a.m., summited at sunrise. Quite a few crevasses but not problematic. The crux just above the col between the summits, but not overall dramatic, Nice steep ridge to the top.
Took a taxi from Huaraz (100-150 soles) to the start of the direct hiking route up to the moraine camp.
Approach to the glacier through the moraine is pretty straightforward, but it makes sense to explore the day before.
Go on to the glacier left of the ice lake, above the rocky section.
The rimaye was closed and almost not visible, and very easy to cross. The snow cover was perfect and the steeper slope up to the summit was straight forward. Ishinca in the same conditions was more difficult in our opinion.
1h45 to hike up to moraine camp (day before)
start at 3:15
0h30 to glacier from moraine camp
3h00 to summit from glacier
1h to descend back to moraine camp
1h to descend from moraine camp to road
If you are fit and well acclimatized, a later start (maybe 4:00) would be sufficient. We slowed down a bit during the climb to not summit in the dark.
We camped at the moraine and left the tent at about 2AM. After 30-40 minutes of fairly easy rock scrambling, we reached the glacier. It was my first high altitude peak of the trip, so we ascended at a relatively slow pace. Reached the summit just in time for dawn - majestic views. The glacier is crevassed, but in good conditions. There were a couple of steeper "walls" (5-6 m tall), where you might consider rappelling down rather than down-climbing, but nothing extraordinary. The weather was perfect. No wind, no clouds, temperature just comfortable all the way.
Perfect conditions, but quite boring slog.
Completed this climb in perfect conditions. Trip report available here: https://goo.gl/CzqA9d
On a 2 week vacation from US tried to climb Vallunaraju and Pisco. This was my 2nd attempt of both, 1st attempt a few years back i got food poisoning and was too sick to climb. 1st attempt on Pisco we tried to do on a 1 week vacation, but didn't have enough acclimitization time.
Optimal weather conditions. Clear skies. Opposite conditions to what we had on pisco 3 days later. Hiked to moraine camp from base camp via eastern route as the more direct western route was closed. One of the other hikers passed out due to low sugar, but was fine after eating a little. Wasn't able to sleep due to limited acclimitization (5th day at higher altitudes). Left at 2:45 for summit, snow a little soft but not bad. Main summit was split in pieces and the approach was too dangerous, so we could only go up the slightly lower southern summit. Descent was quick but the snow conditions got really soft as we neared the bottom. Felt a bit sick back at moraine camp, but eating resolved the issue. We had fresh tracks the whole way and were the only group on the mountain. Great climb, spectacular views and photos. Recommend packing hand/toe warmers.
We (guide+myself) started the climb from moraine camp at 2:45, made the top at 5:20. Due to the wind and cold we had to start our descent before sunrise, which was a bit disappointing. We were back at the camp around 7:30. The positive side was solid snow throughout the ascent/descent. Two snow bridges, one quite narrow.
carried some junky skis to the top that I rented in Huaraz and had a fun and quick ski back down!
This was my first climb in the Cordillera Blanca and it did not disappoint. Day 1: Hang @ 14K base camp (near taxi dropoff point). Day 2: Carry to 16K morraine camp. Day 3: Move to morrain camp. Day 4: Summit and back to Huaraz. The short section from the col to the summit was a bit more serious and exposed than we'd expected, but not very difficult. Bagged the lower summit too which was well worth it for the views of the main summit.
It was a bit more tan the usual acclimitization hike, but it sure was pretty. Very cool intro to the Cordillera Blanca.
One of the nicer climbs. Final summit crest and crevasses near top are amazing. Great photo ops! technically trivial and soloable.
Wow! what a sweet day for climbing. the glacier was rock solid from the ascent to most of the way down. Sweet views! what a good one to teethe on!
Fun looking down on the lights of Huaraz from such great heights.
My first peak in the Cordillera Blanca, although didn't make it to the true summit due to unfavourable conditions. Did make it to the slightly lower summit though.
Went first for the N rige, got turned around by sugar snow. Summited via normal route the next morning. :)
Easy climbing, terrific views!
very good conditions on the glacier right now. Great views of prominent Blanca summits from Huantsan to Huascaran. The trail from basecamp up to the glacier was really steep and the crux of the whole thing.
Why? Because of getting to the top together with Zero, a peruvian Siberian Husky I met at Base Camp...It was a very exciting and touching encounter, because a lot of years ago i'd climbed several mountains with my two huskies...
I decided to camp high near one of the lakes south of the mountain, close to the edge of the glacier. Nobody else was around, but as I started my summit attempt the next morning, gaining the glacier from the saddle to the south, it didn´t take long before the old trail I was following joined the normal route.
While I climbed, I saw three other groups coming down, two of which guided. A busy peak today! I must say that I was glad for the trail, because without it, I could have spent a lot of time finding a way around the crevasses - or even might have fallen into one!
We camped higher than regular BC, on a rock next to the glacier. Easy access in 5 minutes, then 3.5hrs to the top. Great weather, great views.
Many crevasses, but good bridges and some small jumps required. Not sure if it would be safe after a hot day though so get down quick.