Fourth Trip (Feb. 20-21, 2010):
Pony Keg - very nice
Air Guitar - Shirley led, great route
Crackmaster Lambada - Shirley onsighted this intimidating (to me) looking thin crack
Boschido - great bolted arete
Ride 'Em Cowboy - Shirley's lead of another bolted arete
George And Martha - 2nd time seemed easier and funner!
Sinsemilla - Shirley led (seemed harder and more desperate :)
Third Trip (March 19, 2006):
Half day at Sunshine
Steel Grille - very nice route (complete with pigeons)
Sinsemilla - failed attempt
Seven Virgins... - Shirley's lead; easy but fun, clean chimney
Second Trip (March 12, 2006):
One day at the Sunshine Wall (crowded).
Party In.. - Shirley's lead.
Crossing The Threshold - Shirley's lead. Fun route.
Tangled Up In Blue - Fun route but short.
George & Martha - had to take on it once cause I'm weak. Not sure if it deserves the 4 stars (definitely 3 though :)
First Trip (March 6,7 2004):
First visit there for me and my wife. Started off with a day at The Feathers. The bolted face climbs surprised us - climbs were relatively steep, with huge positive holds but pumpy on the forearms (radically different than face climbs at Smith of same grade). Day two was spent at the Sunshine Wall where we managed two trad climbs....before rescuers ordered everyone off the cliffs since there was going to be a heli pick up (someone got hurt - don't know details). Here's our list to date:
Jesus Saves 5.8 - one or two balancy moves.
The Uprising 5.8 - tricky friction move (for short people :)
Altar of Sacrifice 5.7 - nothing special
Shake It Don't Break it 5.5 - first bolt high, easy ground though
The Becky Route 5.7
Ruffled Feathers 5.7
Feather in My Cap 5.5
Don Coyote 5.8 - the best route of the day for us (very pumpy on the forearms)
Party In Your Pants 5.8 - bulge, rest stance, bulge, rest ....X5 or 6. Used quite a bit of gear...
Stroken' the Chicken 5.6 - fun route with crux coming in the last 20-30 feet.
Lead a group of newbies out here, what a great place to be introduced to rock climbing, we had a blast.
First time at Vantage. We stuck to the easier routes on the Feathers and Sunshine Wall. So many routes to climb, I wish we had more time. Very cold and windy until the afternoon.
Not my best day but it is always fun to be climbing.
Climbed here about 20 times in the last 2 years. My favorite routes for the grade...
5.6 - Stroken The Chicken
5.7 - Seven Virgins and a Mule
5.8 - Party in Your Pants
5.9 - Tangled Up In Blue
5.10A - Sex Party
5.10B - Satan's Wagan
5.10C - Sinsemilla
5.10D - None
5.11A - Jihad
5.11B - Apoolo's Last Revenge (haven't tried Stems and Seeds yet)
Stayed here for a DMB concert, managed to get in some quality sport climbing before the show. First time at vantage, looks like a lifetime of rock to climb. Did one route at the Feathers, a few additional routes at Sunshine wall. Good times!
First time here, and the first technical rock I have done since blowing out my knee. Great weather and lots of fun.
Shake It, Don't Break It
Get the Pever Fever
Where the Sidewalk Ends
Feather in My Cap
Updrafts to Heaven
First visit to Vantage for my husband and I; we absolutely enjoyed it. What a cool place! Loved the rock--the endless positive holds for both hands and feet. Conditions were exceedingly windy on Saturday, March 20th, but that did not stop us from enjoying ourselves.
We started on the Feathers the first day, climbing:
Updrafts to Heaven (5.5)--fun
Notch Climb (5.6)
So Funny I Forgot to Laugh (5.9)--nice climb
Medicine Man (5.10A)--very fun climb, great holds
Don Coyote (5.8)--very fun; great clipping stances
Dance of the Shaman (5.10B)--awesome route with fun traverse to the right off of the arete;
Me Too (5.9)
and finished the day on the Sunshine Wall on:
Ride'em Cowboy (5.9)--classic route!!
On Sunday, March 21st, returned the SunShine Wall and did:
Party in Your Pants (5.8)--awesome climb with great positions
Hakuna Matata (5.10B)--awesome 5.10; very well bolted with great exposure and meandering moves back and forth across the arete;
Justified Ancients of Mu Mu (5.8)--fun; top half after ledge is the most enjoyable; lower half has some loose areas
Then headed back to our car, but we just had to squeeze in a bit more climbs on the Feathers:
Jesus Saves (5.8)--enjoyable with nice positioning;
Blood Blister (5.10A)--cool climb; sustained; reachy in areas
Alter of Sacrifice (5.7)
Can't wait to go back!
April 24 and 25, 2004
Another great weekend of climbing; did the following routes:
Under Duress (5.8)
Duress (5.9)--these two can be done in one long pitch with 60 meter rope;
The Manxome Foe (5.10A)
Peaceful Warrior (5.6); actually led 5.10A face;
The Chossmaster (5.7)
Preying Mantel (5.10A)--sweet climb with numerous mantel moves;
Zig Zag Wall:
Jeff's Crack (5.8)--fun
Secret Passage (5.10B)--top roped;
A Walk in the Park (5.7)
When Angels Dress in Closets Deep (5.4)
Corroding Through Noctural Silk (5.8)
Rock of Sages (5.10B)--fun route with heel hook move off the ground;
Thine Ardent Caress (5.10B)--fun route
Serenity (5.10A)--very fun 10;
Battle of Insecurity (5.8)
Winter Sun and Fun (5.9)
Sweetie (5.9+)--listed as 5.10C in guide book, but a hold has broken off and it is now a 5.9+;
Tunnel Vision (5.8)
Don Coyote (5.8)--by headlamp; enjoyable to climb during the day or at night;
What an incredible area. We did a number of routes on the Sunshine wall from 5.8 to 5.11. The routes were a mix of sport and trad. As a note, Herms Tower has fallen over. The 5.7 chimney behind it is now a solid 5.10c stem problem with long run outs.
A great area.
My top 10 favorite routes:
10. Welcome to Vantage. A good crack skills test.
9. Stokin the Chicken. A crazy chimney, that is easiest done if you spiral up inside it, ended up facing out and down at the top.
8. Clip 'em or Skip em. For all who think a 5.8 clip-up is boring.
7.The Rod of God. Get up there Moses!
6. Tangled up in Blue. Like Party Pants, but a little wider.
5. Sinsemilla. Stemming on the harder side.
4. Riding Sidesaddle. A climb requiring big expressive moves.
3. Stems and Seeds. Almost impossible stems, with tiny incut faceholds for flagging and weird balance moves.
2. George and Martha. Begins with tips, ends with O.W.
1. Party in Your Pants. The definition of stemming.
I love Vantage for the stemming problems, and steep juggy aretes where the challenge isn't so much technique, but if you can get to the top before the pump wipes you out.
I've seen the blood from other climbers who were not wearing helmets, and died here. Enough said.