The months of good weather are June, Julio and August. Although the time usually changes suddenly, is known that there are good and bad seasons from the climatic point of view. Another important variable is the moon change that make worse the climate during about 3 to 5 days, with rains, snow-covered and low clouds.
To be a hill highly visited, the Basoue-French route of the Alpamayo is changing its level of difficulty as it advances the season. During the first weeks, it is common to be with snow wave, which long ago more desgastante the advance, and obvious the route is free from previous anchorages. On the contrary, if the last weeks of the season are chosen is possible to be with a good track of affluent hard snow, edges of cracks demarcated and the route equipped with stakes in the meetings
Carriers: Always there are problems, to leave in Cashapampa whatever neat is going to cost this service altogether (to include roundtrip). The cost of this service is greater in Broken Santa Cruz who in other neighboring valleys.
If it is arrived early at Cashapampa is possible to be made the day of approach in a day, although this will be subject to the good will of the carrier.
End taken care of with seracs in the access to the col between the Alpamayo and the Quitaraju.
There is water in all the passage during the approach as also in the field bases, in the Camping Moraine and Col is necessary to fuse snow.
In order to arrive from Lima at Huaraz, it is recommended to go to the centric Ormeño terminal of the Peruvian capital.
He is recommendable to be acclimated well before trying to scale the Alpamayo.
I'm pretty sure the route labelled as the "French Direct" in the photo that also shows the Ferrari and the Basque-French is incorrect. The starting point is correct, but the French Direct takes that next gully to the right and finishes much closer to the summit. At least that's the way we climbed in June 2006. See the photo at http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20205
Andinista - Feb 27, 2005 1:26 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThe months of good weather are June, Julio and August. Although the time usually changes suddenly, is known that there are good and bad seasons from the climatic point of view. Another important variable is the moon change that make worse the climate during about 3 to 5 days, with rains, snow-covered and low clouds.
To be a hill highly visited, the Basoue-French route of the Alpamayo is changing its level of difficulty as it advances the season. During the first weeks, it is common to be with snow wave, which long ago more desgastante the advance, and obvious the route is free from previous anchorages. On the contrary, if the last weeks of the season are chosen is possible to be with a good track of affluent hard snow, edges of cracks demarcated and the route equipped with stakes in the meetings
Andinista - Feb 27, 2005 1:33 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentCarriers: Always there are problems, to leave in Cashapampa whatever neat is going to cost this service altogether (to include roundtrip). The cost of this service is greater in Broken Santa Cruz who in other neighboring valleys.
If it is arrived early at Cashapampa is possible to be made the day of approach in a day, although this will be subject to the good will of the carrier.
End taken care of with seracs in the access to the col between the Alpamayo and the Quitaraju.
There is water in all the passage during the approach as also in the field bases, in the Camping Moraine and Col is necessary to fuse snow.
In order to arrive from Lima at Huaraz, it is recommended to go to the centric Ormeño terminal of the Peruvian capital.
He is recommendable to be acclimated well before trying to scale the Alpamayo.
More information in House of Guides, Huaraz.
Andinista - Feb 27, 2005 1:39 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentHuaraz - Llamacorral.
Llamacorral - CB
CB - Campo Morrena
Campo Morrena - Campo Collado
Campo Collado - Cumbre - Campo Collado
Campo Collado - CB
CB - Huaraz
Itinerary for acclimated montañistas
KevinCraig - Aug 26, 2006 6:33 pm - Hasn't voted
Photo correctionI'm pretty sure the route labelled as the "French Direct" in the photo that also shows the Ferrari and the Basque-French is incorrect. The starting point is correct, but the French Direct takes that next gully to the right and finishes much closer to the summit. At least that's the way we climbed in June 2006. See the photo at http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20205