No summit was bothered today; our focus was to solo Venusian Blind safely. Great fun in approach shoes sans rope! Rappelled down to Contact Pass.
Dark Star was my first climb at Temple many years ago. I returned to guide Sun Ribbon once which left these aretes yet to do. Started hiking from 3rd lake at 5am (way quieter to camp now as 2nd lake was in full on party mode), summitted Venetian at 8am, returned via some 3rd-5th class ledges to the shared start and summitted Moon Goddess by 11:30. From a solo perspective, Moon Goddess was by far the better route. Steeper and more sustained mid 5th climbing. The 5.9 variation felt secure for a competent soloist, all cracks. Venetian felt like a Canadian Rockies scramble more than a climb. Passed three climbers (only other climbers on Temple on a perfect weather Sunday) at the base of the snow field who were climbing Venetian. Lapped them when I went back up on Moon and they were still climbing when I made my final descent to camp. But, they had enough expensive clothes to start a retirement fund! and it was a warm day. I looked like a homeless person in comparison. "Climbing" means something different today than it use to. And Chris's topo was spot on!!!! all the complaining on MP.com about folks getting lost on both routes is on themselves. Could he have been more precise? Not possible re a topo.
First technical alpine route with Devyn
Fourth classed it with Michael. RIP Brotha.
Unwilling to slog in to do T-bolt to Sill so sadly doing laps on Temple.
After a casual stroll in over some snow on the last day of March, April Fools Day was spent on the lower portion of Venusian Blind Arete. We forgot that casual approaches shouldn't cross over to the climb; a late start and intriguing mixed climbing and snow-covered rock lead to lots of climbing ropeless with crampons. And then climbing roped with crampons. And then eventually making a call that bivying on a route is not an option, we opted to bail and rap.
Definitely worth coming back for a summer trip, climb looks 90% soloable! Even more if I manage to get stronger
Perfect Aug day and a freeway on Venusian (Moon Goddess, SRA and Dark Start had only 1 party each). Passed 3 parties and topped out just behind a 4th (a 5th was sitting at the top). Of course the one time I bring crampons for Temple I didn't need them. Chalk it up to extra pack weight training. Car-to-car in my usual time 10:55 +/- 5 min with plenty of summit block loitering.
Low snow year so actually no big deal. Lakes were all frozen and very pretty. Started at 3pm and returned to car next day at 11pm. Climbing felt easy but altitude and route finding...
fun. will need to come back and lead it.
Venusian Blind route in early June. Still a fair amount of snow, but not too bad. Great route and an even better summit. Very cool! Route was fairly long but not difficult.
Climbed with 4 friends (Hector, Robert, Stephanie on one rope, Johann and I on the other). Met two other parties - Michelle (fossana) and Miguel (forjan), and two climbers from Bishop named Ira and Kimberly.
The climb was fun but easier than I had expected - the ST 5.7 pitches felt like 5.6. The crux seemed the 5.6 left side traverse on P5. 12.5 hours camp to camp. Trip Report
Free soloed with Michelle in 10 hrs 49 min car-to-car. Like Michelle said, it was quite busy on VB for a Wednesday. 7 other people on the route. Ran into Romain and Hector on SuperTopo's pitch 3.
Soloed with Miguel as a day trip. Ran into Romain and friends en route and at the top of Contact Pass. Nine of us in total starting around the same time :( Miguel and I did a variation on loose rock to bypass the hordes.
Agree with 2 SPers below that the route seemed more like 5.6. The scariest part was crossing the firm snowfield in the morning sans crampons with a sharp rock to self-arrest.
First time, we were a bit off route and had to leave a cam in the wall...everything was so rotten! Staying on route the second time around was great.
I lead this route twice. Awesome!
I agree about the loose rock, but mostly in places that were not steep so easy to avoid. I would not like to have a party directly above me though.
Based on the hardest single move, OK 5.7. Even though we intended to rope up at on the ledges, we freed the first eight pitches, nothing more than 5.4 until then. We used the chimney (not really part of the route, it's can be bypassed) to avoid the icey snow, that was harder than anything else on the route, but still 5.7. With only 3 hours on route, it left a little to be desired, but because of scattered rain, it was the right route for the day. It was fun, and it was a good climb, I will go back, we didn't tag the top of Temple Crag because of the weather.
Good climbing with my friend Brian E. Nice alpine feel to the whole climb, and the rating seemed a bit easier than 5.7. Plenty of options for belays and routefinding. The route does seem over-hyped, especially because of the abundance of loose rock on the route. Still recommend it to others however. : ]
thought this was something of an overrated route, but that makes me disagree with Croft and McNamara and Moynier, and who ya gonna believe!
But compared to, say, the East Face of Whitney, the rock and climbing both were significantly less interesting, I can't really recall doing more than one or two 5.7 moves in a row. That said, it is in a great location and has good alpine feel.