Via Dinosauri

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.97208°N / 10.90877°E
Additional Information Route Type: Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: 6b (5c, A0)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 13
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Via Dinosauri, Cima alle Coste

Cima alle Coste is a mighty 700 meters high wall situated in Valle del Sarca. The wall appears like a huge corner formed by two impressive walls: the South face on the right, the East face or Central Wall on the left of the huge corner cut by an horizontal system of ledges. The lower section is a smooth grey blackboard with a basal pedestal 250 m high called “Lo Scudo” (The Shield) with an extra quality limestone.

Cima alle Coste and Brento annotated view
Cima alle Coste and Brento annotated view

At the left end of the Shield, where it loses some of its compactness and is interrupted by a large ledge, it runs the route Dinosauri. It's a pleasant and interesting climb on excellent limestone. Why the name "Dinosaurs"? The answer is fascinating...Throughout the area of the Sarca Valley several dinosaur footprints have been found over time. In particular shortly before the opening of this climbing route some footprints were found on the high slabs of Cima alle Coste, nearby the descent route.

Getting There

Cima alle Coste SE face, Sarca Valley
Cima alle Coste SE face, Sarca Valley

 

 

From Rovereto take the state road 240 to Riva del Garda and Arco. Once getting to Arco first roundabout turn to right following the road towards Dro and Trento, entering Sarca Valley. Cross the little village named Dro. From here follow the signpost to the sports-field, parking lot. (28 km from Rovereto).

Route Description

Traverse on Dinosauri, Cima alle Coste
Traverse on Dinosauri, Cima alle Coste

Difficulty: 6b (5c/A0)
Equipment: full equipped with bolts
Climbing length: 410 m
Starting point: Dro sports-field

Long, pleasant and fun route. It is divided into two different sections: the lower section shows a discontinuous climb, with some interesting features, while the upper part is definitely more difficult and satisfying. The equipment is great.

Walking approach

- From the car park take the forest road that leads to the walls and turn right at the first fork. Follow the forest road to the North for about 10 minutes until you reach a barrier. From here follow the path that branches off to the left towards the walls, then continue to the right entering the woods and then up along a scree until it ends. From the top of the scree, follow a track that towards the right leads into the woods, then crossing until the "Sherwood Wall". Beyond this climbimg sector, walk up to the left following the trail tracks until you reach the wall of Cima alle Coste. Skirt it towards the right until the start with the name of the route at the base.

 

Beta of the route Dinosauri
Beta of the route Dinosauri

Report

L1 - Up the broken rocks overcoming different prominences to the stance in correspondence of a tree, 5a, 55 m.
L2 - Bypass the tree to get the base of the slab. Climb the slab and reach the stance in correspondence of another tree, 5b, 40 m
L3 - Traverse to the left and climb the easy rocks, slightly slanting to the right, up to the stance, 3a, 55 m
L4 - Climb obliquely to the left along an easy ramp, then up a dihedral and a slab, exiting to the right to the stance with a tree,  5b, 55 m
L5 - Traverse to the left and climb vertically up to the stance with a tree, 3a, 40 m
L6 - Short connection pitch. Traverse to the left up to stance at the base of the wall where it stops,  I, 10 m
L7 - Climb the ramp to the right then a crack. Continue vertically up to the stance 5a, 20 m.

Slanting crack on Dinosauri, Cima alle Coste
Slanting crack on Dinosauri, Cima alle Coste
Exposed traverse on Dinosauri, Cima alle Coste
Exposed traverse on Dinosauri, Cima alle Coste


L8 - Move to the right, then climb the wall. Head to the left and climb a challenging slab up to the belay, 6a, 30 m
L9 - Climb a vertical wall, then move to the right and climb a slab up to the stance, 5c, 25 m
L10 - Up the blade, then traverse the left using the blade and belay on a comfortable terrace, 6a (5c and A0), 30 m
L11 - Take the crack, traverse to the right under the overhang and continue to the stance following a small dihedral, 5a, 6b or A0, 30 m
L12 - Climb vertically the slab, then traverse to the right and belay at the base of a roof, 5c, 20 m
L13 - Move to the left and climb the wall above; climb the beautiful blades and exit to the stance slightly to the left of the large boulder, 6a (5c, A0), 40 m

1° tiro 4a, 5a – 2° tiro 5a, 5b – 3° tiro 3a – 4° tiro 5b – 5° tiro trasferimento – 6° tiro 3°a – 7° tiro trasferimento – 8° tiro 5a – 9° tiro 5b, 5c – 10° tiro 5c – 11° tiro 6a – 12° tiro 6b (A0), 6a – 13° tiro 5c, 5a – 14° tiro 5b

The Dinosaur footprint slabs on Cima alle Coste
The Dinosaur footprint slabs on Cima alle Coste
Descent along the smooth slabs of Cima alle Coste
Descent along the smooth slabs of Cima alle Coste

Descent

From the last stance on a large boulder head to the South and then start to descend to the left, crossing an area of ‚Äč‚Äčlarge boulders until you come to a series of cairns that lead you to cross a wide slab, to the left of which the route enters the forest. Cross it briefly and once out of the woods, turn right skirting the edge of the wall and from here take the obvious path that leads to the "Sentiero delle Cavre". Continuing downhill on the same path you arrive on a forest with a chapel, from where turning left you will reach soon the parking lot.

Essential Gear

Rope 2 x 60, helmet, quickdraws. The route is entirely equipped, mobil protections are not necessary 

Red Tape

Lago di Cavedine in Spring
Lago di Cavedine in Spring

No fees, no permits and no restrictions in climbing and hiking.

When to climb

Generally in this area it's possible to climb all year round, anyhow the best periods to climb "Dinosauri" goes from September to May.

Where to stay

Sarca Valley pano
Sarca Valley pano

No problem. This area is a primary destination, offering several different kinds of accomodation, included some campsites in Arco and Pietramurata.

Bibliography

- Guidebooks

“Arco Pareti- Vie Classiche, moderne e sportive in Valle del Sarca” by Diego Filippi – Edizioni Versante Sud - Third edition, may 2013

- Maps

“Valle del Sarca” – Map 1:25000 - Edizioni Meridiani Montagne

Meteo forecast

Meteotrentino



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.