Via Normale

Page Type
Dolomites, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Alpine ascent
Time Required:
Most of a day
III+ UIAA scale

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Created On: Jun 2, 2003
Last Edited On: Jun 3, 2003


Depart from Passo Sella (where you leave the car).
Take the lift to Forcella Sassolungo (Rif. Demetz)

Route Description

As far as Sassolungo peak is concerned I report a brief description of the normal way. The normal way to Sassolungo is the most crowded climbing way in the group, normally you can expect (in August) to find other 10/20 persons on the way in a day). Keep in mind the even if the difficulty is around III degree it is very easy to get lost and to have troubles. The way is very difficult to find and to follow. Many persons got lost. Before going there study carefully the way (e.g. refer to the book from Ivo Rabanser "Sassolungo" published by the Club Alpino Italiano, in Italian. Youy will find a link in the "link section") and possibly get all the information from local alpin guides and/or from the persons managing the Rifugi, I report only a brief description. From Passo Sella (parking) take the lift to Forcella Sassolungo (Rif. Demetz). From there descent towards Rif. Vicenza. After about 10 min take a path on your right and follow it. This "path" will become narrower (cengia dei Fassani) and will go around the Campanile di Venere. Follow the Cengia until you reach the Ghiacciaio del Sassolungo (Glacier). Cross it and go up (crampons eventually needed) continue until you reach the anfiteatro cross it and take another kind of couloir after you will reach the Bivacco del Sassolungo (small barrack that can be used in case of emergency). Climb the tower in front of you and proceed, you will be on the ridge of the Sassolungo, follow it, pass the Antecima (where there is a cross) and proceed until you reach the summit. This should take between 3 and 5 hours. It took me 3 hours, but my guide knew exactly the way. If you get lost it can take MUCH MORE. Go there well equipped and prepared. Do not underestimate the way, it is an Alpine ascent. Only the climbing difficulty is easy all the other aspects are complex and difficult (length, engagement, exposure, non marked way and so on). Even if you clim easily the 7 degree on a the wall in your gym you can have trouble for all the aspects that I mentioned

Essential Gear

Climbing equipment: harness, rope, helmet, mountain boots (NO climbing shoes), enough carabiners, rings of rope, few friends and nuts. Crampons for the glacier.
Keep in mind that this mopuntain is "wild", it is easy to get lost, so bring warm cloths and enough food/water. Usually mobile phones work.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.