Wettersteingrat - RIDGE

Overview

Wettersteingrat is one of the classical ridges of the Wetterstein-Range.
It stretches from Meillerhütte (W) to Untere Wettersteinspitze (E).
Compared with Jubiläumsgrat Wettersteingrat is less famous and less frequented but definitely neither less difficult nor less spectacular. Except some bolts on the ascent to Musterstein there are no cables or other ironware on the ridge. It is 6km long and the altitude ranges from around 2200-2500m above sea level (Jubiläumsgrat 2600 – 2900). The difficulty varies from hiking to UIAA II and some short sections UIAA III. The rock isn’t solid in some passages. In summer it takes about 6-8h to get from Meillerhütte to Untere Wettersteinspitze. In winter you should be prepared to bivouac on the ridge (no shelter available).

Getting There

Most times the ridge is done from W to E, starting at Meilerhütte.
There are various ways to get to Meillerhütte:
- From Garmisch-Partenkirchen via Partnachklamm – Kälbersteig – Schachen: 1700m, 4-5h
- From Ellmau via Wettersteinalm – Angerloch: 1300m, 3-3½h
- From Leutasch (leave your car near the houses of “Reindlau”) via Berglental: 1300m, 2½-3h
- From Leutasch (leave your car near the houses of “Lehner”) via Puittal, Söllerpass: 1400m, 3-3½h

All ascents are endangered by avalanches in winter

Meilerhütte (2366m) is an Alpenvereinshütte, usually open from June to the first weekend in October. In winter, one room with 8 beds and a gas-stove is usually open.

Red Tape

Toll road to Ellmau: 3€
Overnight at Meillerhütte: 5-10€ (members/non-members)

When To Climb

You can expect good conditions from mid June to mid September.
In winter Wettersteingrat is a real challenge: According to the cimbers' book at Meilerhütte it's not uncommon that the ridge is unpassable.

Route

Always follow the ridge, passing Meilerhütte (2366m) – Musterstein (2478m) – Wettersteinkopf (2431m) – Wettersteinwand (2483m) – Rotplattenspitze (2429m) – Obere Wettersteinspitze (2296m) – Untere Wettersteinspitze (2152m).

You can leave the ridge at Drei Scharten (between Musterstein and Wettersteinkopf) descending to N. But this trail is rather bad (short passages UIAA I-II), thus it’s propably better to climb back on your tracks if you are in trouble in the first part.
From Obere Wettersteinspitze there is a marked trail (2h) down to Ferchensee (from there 1h walk back to Ellmau). If you made it to Untere Wettersteinspitze descend the E ridge to Ferchensee or Leutasch (via Franzosensteig): 3h

Miscellaneous

Altough not extremly difficult, Wettersteingrat is a long, alpine route. It should be done only by experienced climbers, who are able to proceed fast and safely in these areas. Due to it's length it is not possible to belay longer sections.

Images

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