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10834 Hits
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74.01% Score
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4 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.75600°N / 119.593°W |
Route Type:
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technical rock |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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III, 5,7 - 5.10, C2- or 5.12b |
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Approach
To reach the start of the Lost Arrow Tip, either hike up the Yosemite Falls trail or down the Hetch Hetchy trail from the Yosemite Creek campground on the Tioga Pass road. Once at the falls, follow the trail to Yosemite Point. From trees about 300 feet west of the railing, rappel about 250' into the notch.
Route Description
Tie two 150' ropes together and anchor them to a pine tree at the rim. Rappel to the notch ( ascenders handy for passing the knot ). Either anchor the rappel ropes in the notch so they don't blow out of reach or ( better ) trail them with you for the exciting must do tyrolean traverse. Walk out a narrow ledge onto the east face. A 5.10d or 5.9 C2 pitch leads up cracks and an offwidth to Salathe Ledge. Traverse left to a crack ( 5.10d or C2 ), then climb past bolts ( 5.8 C1 or 5.12b ) to the top. The climb can also be done in original style using only nuts for aid at 5.5 C2-. From the top, either rappel back to the notch or pull the ropes tight from the rim and return via the tyrolean traverse - a must do experience!
See Yosemite Climbs - Big Walls, by Don Reid for more information.
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Essential Gear
Nuts including cams ( several 2 1/2" - 3 1/2" ), a few tie off loops and rivet hangers, lots of carabiners. A cheater stick may come in handy if any fixed gear is missing. Ascenders ( Jumars ) for the tyrolean traverse are ( of course ) a must.
Miscellaneous Info
This has to be the most spectacular and exposed 2 pitch climb in the world! It isn't really a hard climb, just good scary fun!
rpc - Jun 9, 2004 4:23 pm - Voted 10/10
Route CommentCraig's info. on route page is dead on. Only addition I can make is the fact that all belay and lead bolts have been replaced by ASCA in 2002 (acc. to Supertopo). They're all very new, very nice, and very confidence-inspiring. Belay ledge in the notch has a 2-bolt anchor; belay on Salathe ledge has a 3-bolt anchor; top of spire has about 6 bolts.
For aiding the P1 upper OW section (goes free at 5.10 I think?), used up to #5 Friend and #4 Camalot. P2 begins by clipping a bolt at the left edge of Salathe Ledge and then you can reach up and clip a "shoelace" (old, well-weathered) sling on some ancient peg. This is the start of the crux (C2?) terrain. From here you can either stick-clip a bolt about 12-15 feet up (that's what I did) or make one or two sketchy/shallow groove placements to reach it. The crux is not over at the bolt. From here, the route traverses straight left (bomber 0.75-1" cam) and then up. You can spot two hangerless bolts from here. Given that they only protrude <0.25 inches from the rock, you're done cheating your way through with the clip stick. As far as I could tell, next 1-2 placements were mandatory C1+/C2. One was the smallest Alien with 2 out of 4 lobes contacting the rock, the other was a hook placement. The only hook I had with me was the tiny one recommended by Supertopo. I wish I had one about twice as big - it would've been bomber and totally stress-free.
Gear-wise, did not place any nuts (other than using them as hangers on hangerless bolts). Cams, cams, cams - from smallest Alien up to #4 Camalot. Radios are a good idea (falls next door tend to get loud).