Eperon des Cosmiques

Eperon des Cosmiques

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.87890°N / 6.88780°E
Additional Information Route Type: snow couloir (Vallee Blanche) rock to top
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: D with pitches V, A1
Sign the Climber's Log

Approach


From the Cosmiques or Simond Hut area desend the Vallee Blanch to the couloir between the first two rock formations below the Arete des Cosmiques ridge. Up the couloir to the right starts the rock face.

Route Description


This route is described in the guide books. I took route notes from Gaston Rebuffat's The Mont Blanc Massif (the 100 finest routes). When I climbed it July 22, 1976 it was quite popular. A short climb no more than 3-3 1/2 hours using some aid climbing in the overhangs. You can make several variations on this short but interesting face.

Essential Gear


Etriers are needed for the overhanging spots, Although when I climbed the route we just used some long slings.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-5 of 5
adnix

adnix - Aug 12, 2004 4:32 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

The overhang on Rebuffat route can be climbed free at 5+/6a, too. In some guidebooks the route is rated TD inf. A normal rack with nuts and cams should be enough.

duxe1975

duxe1975 - Aug 28, 2004 12:29 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

from the routh description i think that your talking about a routh that called in some of the guide books as cosmic spur, i was climbing it this summer and it was very enjoyble, if that's the routh i'll be happy to put in some more info, topo and photoes, so please let me know.
cheers
roy

cherokee

cherokee - Nov 18, 2004 7:27 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Well, better late than never! But no these are two different routes. Randy Janoski

duxe1975

duxe1975 - Nov 21, 2004 2:33 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

is there any other rock route on the cosmic ?
the only one i know is the cosmic spur...
roy

cherokee

cherokee - Dec 20, 2004 4:39 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

The face of the spur is covered with variations. After my first climb I later (over a 8 year time span) climbed 4 other "routes" up the spur.
Randy

Viewing: 1-5 of 5


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.