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9217 Hits
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73.06% Score
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3 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.11300°N / 115°W |
Route Type:
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Snow couloir/ridge scramble |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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AI 3, class 3+ |
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Approach
Follow Fishhook Trail and description to North side technical climbs. then head for obvious snow field and couloir on north face of mountain.
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Route Description
Cross Fishhook creek across from couloir and scramble up talus and snow field until it steepens and narrows into couloir. Climb couloir snow (up to 40-45 degrees) about 2-3 pitches to col.
Scramble from col to to East ridge, then to the summit, with the greatest difficulty being route finding.
If you are uncomfortable climbing and area or it looks too steep, backtrack and go around steep sections. There is generally a class 3 route to the summit on most ridges.
Descent is a class 3+ scramble heading West down the summit ridge until you find an exit gully to the Northwest face, then scramble down the face back to Fishhook creek and bushwack back to the Fishhook creek trail.
Rock is generally loose everywhere, so always be aware of rockfall potential.
This route can be soloed by EXPERIENCED alpine climbers, but you are in a very remote setting, so don't overestimate your abilities.
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Essential Gear
Helmet, crampons, ice axe.
Also needed (depending on experience/comfort level:
Rope, 2nd ice tool, snow pickets (2-3), various slings/carabiners for snow anchors
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.