Traversing the ridge: Monte Nevoso - Monte Magro

Overview

Schneebige Nock / Monte Nevoso 3358m and Monte Magro / Magerstein 3273m are connected with a beautiful but not easy ridge. This route is usually done in descent but I think it is harder in descent because you climb all the hard places in the descent. But it is true that you have then from the Monte Magro nice and quick descent over glacier to the Rif. Roma (2273m).

So it is you decision in which way you will make the traversing of ridge. I have done it from the Monte Nevoso to Monte Magro and I was suprised by a difficulty of the ridge because I did not expect that kind of difficulty. It is true that our descend from Monte Nevoso was a bit harder because of new snow so our descent was a bit riskya and very serious. We didn`t see all the signpost so we climbed not over the main ridge where goes the marked route and we descended over the SE face over the slippery shelves. But I think the ridge where goes the marked route it wouldn`t be different because of snow. In snowless conditions it is more comfortable.

Getting There

I describe the ridge in the way from Monte Nevoso to Monte Magro as I did it. So you must reach the summit of Monte Nevoso over the North ridge from the Rif. Roma. The good description you can find here.

Route Description

First you must descend from the summit of Monte Nevoso. The marked route goes over the main ridge and I suggest you that you hold the route. On the same places you must climb a bit over the some rocks (UIAA I, if you don`t hold the route it will be much more harder. It is crumbly. So when you descend over the SE ridge or face you reach the small saddle 3203m. From here you climb on the first tower over the smooth rocks. On the other side of the tower you are suprised by the very steep ferrata. You must descend over 60 meters wholly vertical nad very exposed face. On some place is a bit overhang. The place is secured with the chain but in descend is very hard to climb it.

When you descend over this tiring part of the ridge you reach over the steep slope the Fernerköpfl 3234m, Here comes from the SW side the route from the Rieserfernerhuette (2791m). You continue to the next summit of Frauenköpfl 3251m and then you descend to the saddle below the Margenstein / Monte Magro. You reach it in ten minutes.

You descend by the normal route from the Rif. Roma to Monte Magro over the glacier and north slopes.

Essential Gear

Ice axe, crampons, I recommend also the helmet and the rope for not good climbers.

Images

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