Black Towers

Bazehead - Aug 10, 2009 1:09 pm - Voted 8/10

hi Dow,
A big thanks for your East Ridge route info (and all the others I've used)! Pierre and I did the East Ridge yesterday and followed your info, plus info from the 11,000ers book (pg 181).

One note that is worth mentioning for other readers... we found the 11,000ers description particularly helpful in locating/starting the Black Towers gully. As per the book, there is a small pinnacle (~40ft high) that looks like an elephant ass from way back at this photo's viewpoint. Turn the pinnacle on the right and find a tight chimney (~3ft wide) which you squeeze up to the top, where it positions you well for the correct line up the gully. From here move slightly left then mostly up the steppy slabs to exit right of the tower (high above) and right of the cornices. (This is another variation from your photo, where you show exiting left of the right-most cornice.)

From this start to the Towers we scrambled un-roped (at most low 5th class) past many pin anchors/tat and intermediary pins. From the red line in this photo our line followed to mid-way and then went right into the thin black shadow in the photo, to finish right of the cornice (as per the 11,000ers description).

Hope this helps others who do the route. Overall it was fun and a good route-finding challenge. No bivi required if you're quick and stay (mostly) on route.

Anton