Western Swing, 5.10b

3rd-4th Pitches- 200’- 5.10b/ These are the money pitches, a unique chimney experience followed by an exposed traverse through a break in the large roof above. This chimney portion is considerably more difficult than Epinephrine’s chimney pitches. It becomes quite flared the further you get which makes standard chimney technique a bit awkward. The outside wall gets slick and blank and is definitely where you want to have your back for the crux sections. Towards the top where it converts back into a finger crack/corner, you will make the crux move of the climb by doing a 360 as you maneuver an awkward hanging move above a chock stone. By this time however, you will have found some solid pro in the wall and crack. Do a few layback moves looking for the positive edges to traverse out right onto the face below the large roof above. Angle up and right through a depression that is challenging to protect (sliding ball nuts would be helpful) towards an obvious break in the roof above. There are positive edges to maneuver (5.9), but the ground is slightly run out. Once you get into the break, mantel up through the corner, making sure to utilize double length slings because once you break out up above, you will need to drag the ropes (4th-5th class) way back left to set you up for the next pitch on Jubilant Song. Western Swing, 5.10b, 8 Pitches, South Face, Windy Peak, Red Rocks, NV, December, 2009