Middle Earth, 5.9

5th - 100’- 5.9/ This is the pitch that attracted me to Middle Earth and it did not disappoint! Unlike Tunnel Vision’s so called vertical tunnel, Middle Earth really does sport a vertical tunnel. Move the belay back to the base of the pyramid shaped opening leading into the dark abyss. Allow your eyes time to adjust. Climb solid varnished pockets up run out ground as the tunnel narrows allowing you to place a 2” behind you and a four inch higher up on the right. I had to feel around for this placement, very dark at this point. Beware as this rock will have a slight mud film to it. The further you ascend, the more secure you will feel. The final space you must birth out of is quite small. I do not advise this route for heavy climbers. Knee bar and worm your way 180 degrees to facing away from the wall where you can grip the top of the tunnel and pull yourself out of the final squeeze. Belay out of a crack to climber’s right. Middle Earth, 5.9, 6 Pitches, Frigid Air Buttress, Icebox Canyon, Red Rocks, 2010