Peak Delone

Peak Delone

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 49.82159°N / 86.60591°E
Activities Activities: Mountaineering
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 13976 ft / 4260 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Significant mountain located in the same range as famous Belukha to the East from Belukha East Peak, bears the name of Russian mathematician and climber B.N. Delone. This mountain is not climbed very often mostly because of the closely located Belukha - highly desired goal for most of the climbers in the area. But Peak Delone - undeservedly low visited mountain remains very challenging and fascination thing to climb, especially if you are not prone to do as everybody does. Technically Peak Delane Classic Route is half-grade higher in Russian categories comparing to Belukha, it offers more technical and exposed climbing to the Summit, which can be easily combined with climbing Belukha as the routes share the same descent route and partly ascent one. Climbing Peak Delone can extend your Altay adventure and prolong your climbing program in Altay as climbing must-to-climb Belukha surely is obligatory but not enough for getting acquainted with fairy Altay mountains.

At the moment, lack of organization and infrastructure came to the very inconvenient situation in Belukha region when 99% of all the climbing people go to Altay for one mountain and one route. Every mountain around is climbed once in 5 years, but classic route to East Belukha is flooded much more its capacity. The idea is to provide more information on the possible routes and mountains in Altay to make the climbers interest may be not equal but somehow distributed between some highly interesting and beautiful climbing locations.

First Climbers

V. Abalakov, 1933, the North East Ridge

Getting There

Delane Peak has the same base camp as Normal Belukha route - it begins from the place called Tomsk bivouak - popular place for camping for the most groups headed to Belukha. It can be reached in 4-6 hours from the Akkem lake where lots of people come for trekking climbing and sightseeing.

From Moscow take a regular flight to Barnaul. From Barnaul take a taxi (fairy expensive) or shuttle bus to Tungur village. From the village the horses can be arranged (beware of thieves and frauds - it is common practice there) and in two days you can reach Akkem lake on the horseback or walking (equal time).

Red Tape

Now it is two years as one very special rule works in the area. As for going to Kazakhstan from Russia you don't need any special documents in the same time for coming to the Russian region bordering to Kazakhstan you need the border pass, which can be done only by personal apply in the main border office in Barnaul not later than 60 days prior your coming. That absolutely absurd restriction decreases number of visitors in 10 times in two years. The border pass is free, but to get it you have to send you application via fax to t6he border office (only in Russian), and after trace your papers moving between instance to prevent their loss which is highly probable. My personal opinion is that for non Russian speakers that is beyond any possibilities.

Just in case you found that info but can speak fluent Russian (which would be strange)
Here is the form of Border Pass application (in Russian) http://altai-guide.narod.ru/pogranzona/blanky_dlia_viezda_v_pogranzonu.rar

It is to be sent to the Fax # +7 388 46 23 555
Phone for references (in Russian only) +7 388 46 23 654 (115)

Camping

No camping restrictions in the area

External Links

Information on the organized tours and climbs in Altay mountains you can find here

Fresh photos from the recent AlexClimb Altay expedition 2011
Gallery #1
Gallery #2