Thurwieser Spitze (Punta Thurwieser)

Overview

Thurwieser Spitze (Punta Thurwieser) 3652 m

Punta Thurwieser is an icy pyramidal peak belonging to the Trafoi-Thurwieser subgroup and lying on a mighty branch West to Ortles-Koenig Spitze main ridge; its West ridge joins it to another mighty threethousander peak, the Trafoier Eiswand (Cima di Trafoi), while a high icy col, named Passo Thurwieser, separates it from a couple of other interesting peaks, Grosser Eiskogel and Kleiner Eiskogel (Gran Cono di Ghiaccio and Piccolo Cono di Ghiaccio). The superb snowy North-East ridge, starting just from the Thurwieser Col, gives to Punta Thurwieser an unmistakable shape.

Punta Thurwieser North-East ridge

Though not much frequented because of its secluded position, Punta Thurwieser is one of the finest peak of the Ortles-Cevedale massif. The place-name Thurwieser is in memory of Peter Carl Thurwieser from Salzburg (Austria), one of the first summiters of Ortles. Being the peak surrounded by the most important summits of the group, the superb Gran Zebrù, Monte Zebrù, Ortles and Cima di Trafoi, the summit view is quite spectacular. The most attended route is the one running on the North-East ridge, approachable from V Alpini Hut in upper Val Zebrù.

Getting There

ROAD ACCESS

The starting point is the little settlement of San Nicolò Valfurva, 3 km. from Bormio, a main destination which can be approached from Milan following the Valtellina and from Alto-Adige through the Stelvio Pass.

APPROACH TO RIFUGIO V ALPINI

From San Nicolò Valfurva follow the narrow road entering Val Zebrù, crossing the small settlement of Plazzola and Niblogo and leading to Tre Croci parking m. 1610, besides which the private cars are not allowed. From here carry on walking along the main gravel road running inside Val Zebrù, reaching the alpine “baita” Zebrù di fuori and Zebrù di Dentro m. 1870, then Baita del Pastore m. 2168 and ending at m. 2525 (about 3 hours by walking from the parking). From here a good path follows the moraine, leading to the V Alpini Hut m. 2877 (about 4 hours from Tre Croci parking).

A deep crevasse on Vedretta Zebrù

Starting point of the glacier

APPROACH TO PASSO THURWIESER

From V Alpini Hut follow the path towards Vedretta dello Zebrù (Zebrù Glacier); cross the Eastern branch of the glacier, then follow the Western one towards North keeping yourself in the middle and reaching a 300 m. high snowy gully facing SE, leading to Passo Thurwieser.

Punta Thurwieser best routes

NE Ridge

Difficulty: Alpine AD
Length: 300 m.
Exposure: NE
First ascent: Theodor Harpprecht with Josef Schnell 21-8-1869
Starting point: Passo Thurwieser (Thurwieser-Joch) m. 3480

Beautiful ascent, the most frequented on the mountain.

From the Rifugio V Alpini follow the path towards Vedretta dello Zebrù (Zebrù Glacier); cross the Eastern branch of the glacier, then follow the Western branch towards North keeping yourself in the middle and reaching a 300 m. high snowy gully facing SE, leading to Passo Thurwieser.

N FACE

Difficulty: Alpine D-
Length: 250 m.
Exposure: N First ascent: Eugen Guido Lammer alone 19-8-1893
Starting pont: Passo Thurwieser m. 3480 or Pelliccioli Bivouac m. 3230

The most classic climb amongst the lines running on North and North West faces; as all the routes on this face, it counts few repetitions.

W RIDGE (BAECKMANN GRAT)

Difficulty: Alpine D
Length: 800 m.
Exposure: W
First ascent: Carl Backmann with Alois Kuntner and Alois Pinggera 16-9-1890
First integral ascent: Richard and Rudiger Weitzenboch
Starting point: Cima di Trafoi summit

Descent: following the NE ridge.

Vedretta dello Zebrù

Huts and Bivouacs

***Rifugio V Alpini m. 2877 - C.A.I. Milano – 60 beds, open from middle june to middle September RIFUGIO V ALPINI

***Bivacco Città di Cantù al Giogo Alto (Hochjoch) m. 3535 – C.A.I. Cantù – 9 places, always open

***Bivacco Leone Pelliccioli m. 3230 – C.A.I. Bergamo – 6 places, always open

Red Tape

A wild environment lying inside Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio. No particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing. Cars are not allowed beyond the Tre Croci parking.

When to climb

Best season goes from the end of June to middle September

Meteo

METEO BOLZANO
DOLOMITI METEO - ALTO ADIGE
METEO LOMBARDIA

Guidebooks and maps

“Ortles-Cevedale – Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio” by Gino Buscaini – Collana CAI-TCI Guide dei Monti d’Italia

Map “Ortles-Cevedale” , foglio 72 - Kompass 1:50.000