Papuk

Central Papuk

Croatian name: Papuk and Krndija

Jankovac waterfall

Hungarian names: the contemporary name is Papuk-hegység. The historical names that can be found in older sources: Papok-havasa or Pozsega-havasa. In the following text I will give also the Hungarian names where available.

The area that I describe here is a single mountain range from geographical aspect. Still its western and eastern parts are referred in Croatian language with two different names. It’s a bit mysterious thing: the two parts are rather similar to each other, and there is no distinct border line between the two areas. There is no river, no deep valley and not even a distinct saddle that would separate Papuk and Krndija. In practice they are the same mountain range.

The whole mountain range is stretching in western-eastern direction in 70 km length. Its average width is 12 km. The eastern 30 km long part is called Krndija. There is an unnamed low-point (ca. 615 m) of the mountain ridge between M. Vincine (718 m) and Javori (712 m). This low-point is the approximate border between the two mountain ranges. From here Papuk is stretching in western direction, in 40 km length. The westernmost end of Papuk is distinct mountain group. This group is separated from the central group of Papuk with the saddle Đedovica (536 m). This western group has its own name: Lisina/Fekete-hegyek. This latter Hungarian name means ‘Black Hills’ and it is in accordance with the Croatian name of its highest summit: Crni vrh (863 m). Crni vrh means Black hill.

In the following text I will refer to the whole mountain range as "Papuk".

The highest peak of the mountain range is in the central group of Papuk. It is called Papuk vrh. It is 954 m high. It doesn’t sound too high. But when you look at the mountain range from northern direction, from the plain of Drava/Dráva river, it is quite impressive. The plain of this river is only on 100 meter above see level. Anyway the main western-eastern ridge of the mountain range is the drainage divide between Drava/Dráva and Sava/Száva.

Since 1999 Papuk is classified as a protected Nature Park due to its extraordinary geological and biological diversity and its valuable cultural heritage. In 2007 Papuk was awarded Geopark status - the first Geopark in Croatia.

The rocks in the GeoPark of Papuk were formed in great variety both from the aspect of structural characteristics and age. It means that rock formations of the past 600 million years can be found here, which were composed of crystalline, metamorphic (phyllit, chlorite schist, gneiss, migmatit and amphibolit), granite. Thanks to the carbonate rocks we can admire Karst features. The heritage of the Miocene age Pannonian sea are sediments with fossils. 

More than 96% of the Geopark area is covered by forest. More than 25% of the Croatian flora is represented here by 1300 plant species. The most endangered plants can be found on the few grasslands of the Park. This rich vegetation is also a heaven for animals.

Route	Length	Duration	Max. Elevation	Elevation Gain
Velika – Lapjak – Nevoljaš – Jankovac	8.9 km	3h 15 min	749 m	615 m
Velika  – Češljakovački vis	8.5 km	2h 15 min	826 m	614 m
Velika  – Mališčak – Orahove vode – Ivačka glava	8.8 km	3h	913 m	705 m
Vučjak Kamenski ("Lula") – Kamengrad	2.8 km	45 min	610 m	290 m

Sport Climbing

The first sports climbing route in Slavonia has been created on the location of Sokolina near Velika/Velikeváralja. On the rock, among heights up to 12 meters, ten routes have been marked. The rock is built of quartzite. It is a very solid rock wall. The full height of the rock is more than 50 meters, but its height is divided into several ledges. Sports climbing routes are located on the south-western part of the rock.

Mountain Biking

The following routes have been created and offered by GeoPark Papuk:

1. Crni vrh / Fekete-hegy

This mountain is the highpoint of the mountain group called Lisina/Fekete-hegyek. It is 863 m high. With this height it is the 5th highest name summit of Papuk. The prominence of this hill is 327 meter, defined by saddle Đedovica (536 m). This is the second most prominent peak of the whole mountain range.

2. Točak

This hill is 887.1 m high – only 10 cm lower than the neighbouring Lom. It is the 4th highest summit of Papuk.

3. Lom

This hill is 887.2 m high – 10 cm higher than the neighbouring Točak. It is the 3rd highest summit of Papuk. Prominence of this summit is 192 m, and with this value it is the 3rd most prominent peak of the mountain range. Similarly to Točak, it was a mine-infected area that is cleaned in theory by now. The distance between Točak and Lom is only 4 km.

4. Papuk vrh / Papuk-csúcs

It is the highest peak of Papuk – it is 954 meter high. Its prominence is 600 meter. The top of the mountain is a fenced military station. From eastern direction – from Nevoljaš Pass - a service road leads to the summit. At elevation of 880 meter there is post informing people that it is the protective area of the military station and it is forbidden to enter the area. This is a bit confusing because further up on the summit at the gate of the fenced area there is the place with the summit stamp for the hikers, and also a bit further on the western subpeak of Papuk (called Mali Papuk) there is the Zen Bench. So there are tourist objects within the prohibited area… I have heard about a case when a hiker had conflict with the military there. My personal experience: I spoke with the soldier guarding at the gate of the military object. He kindly explained us how we can find the bench and he didn't create a problem from our presence at the fence of the military object.

5. Ivačka glava

This is one of the best peaks of Papuk. With its 913 m height it is the second highest peak of the mountain range. There is no military station on its top. The peak is a steep rocky hill, with very good view in western, northern and northeast direction.

6. Lapjak

Lapjak is not among the highest hills of Papuk – it is only 667 meter high. Still it is a very interesting place. This mountain has a the shape of a real mountain with its sharp pyramidal view from southern direction. The mountain is made of dolomite. A huge dolomite quarry is in operation in its western slopes. Luckily not much is seen from the tourist path leading on its main ridge. There are some rocky outcrops on the ridge. The most spectacular cliffs are called Tauberove stijene. A cross is erected here, and you can enjoy nice view from here towards the basin of Požega/Pozsega. These cliffs are only a few hundred meter far from the summit of Lapjak where you can find the log book of the mountain. The summit is covered by forest and there is no panoramic view from there.

7. Nevoljaš

Nevoljaš is a mountain near Nevoljaš Pass. This mountain has two summits. The north-western summit is the higher one: it is 771 meter high. This rocky peak (limestone) is covered by forest and no trail goes there. The lower south-eastern summit is 740 meter high. There is an outlook tower on this peak. From here you can enjoy perhaps the best panoramic view of the whole mountain range. In springtime the vegetation of this peak is the richest in the mountain range. The most beautiful flowers here are spring crocus (Crocus vernus), dog's-tooth-violet (Erythronium dens-canis), alpine squill (Scilla bifolia) among other common but still beautiful flowers like primrose (Primula vulgaris), snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis), ramsons (Allium ursinum), wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa), cuckooflower (Cardamine pratensis) and Helleborus odorus.

8. Jankovac / Jankovác

This is not a mountain but a small mountain resort with the best attraction of the whole mountain range. Here you can find a limestone cave, a huge karst spring, 2 artificial lakes and last but not least the magnificent waterfall. This is the biggest waterfall of the whole Slavonia province. Tourists get good service here in the local tourist hut. There is also a souvenir shop, and there you can buy a map of Papuk. In summer season (from the 30th April) car parking costs 10 HKR here.

9. Češljakovački vis

10. Kapavac