2nd Pitch- (50’) 5.8
The West End routes of Snow Canyon
rarely see any action due to Peregrine Falcon closures during a prime part of the climbing season, February 1 through June 1.
This is no doubt one of the reasons it offers the most remote climbing in the park, not to mention the longer approach particularly in comparison to Island in the Sky
. The West End routes include the most notable of all of Snow Canyon climbing, the seven pitch, 5.11b, “The Cheese Stands Alone”. The best route in which to scout the Cheese Stands Alone is the much tamer three pitch Wagassa route which runs up the right side of the perpendicular wall. Wagassa is a mixed route with fairly new bolts (2007) on the first two pitches, albeit a tad run out, and pure trad on the last pitch. By far the most critical point of beta regarding Wagassa is that you need double ropes for the rap. Todd Goss’s “Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah” claims it is a two rap descent. This information is dangerously incorrect.
It is a two rap descent with double ropes only. There is no third rap station. What I did leave for the next ambitious climber set was a #11 hex stuck in a precarious flaring sandy crack (photo) exactly 30 meters (end of a single rope rappel) from the mid rap station.
I climb with doubles 90% of the time. The one time I catch Todd wrong about a descent, I am climbing on a single. Go figure.
3rd Pitch- (60’) 5.8
Snow Canyon State Park
is a state park of 7100 acres just north of St. George, Utah. The West End has five published routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.11b and offers the most remote climbing in the park. It receives morning sun and afternoon shade.
Park on the left side (west) of the park road at the Three Ponds trail head. This location is right before you reach the campground on the right. The guidebook references parking further south (West End trail head) and accessing the area via the gated gravel road. However the Three Ponds trail is more scenic covering no more distance. You eventually cross the before mentioned gravel road. Continue following the trail markers. Before you descend into a broad wash, leave the trail to the left and make for a short scramble section up to the wall in front of you. You should easily identify the route via the photos provided. A dark crack on a significant roof towards the top makes up the third pitch. A left leaning crack on the wall below the roof makes up the first pitch. Scramble up right and then left to gain a belay ledge with a small tree. The first bolt is about 25’ off the deck to the left of the crack.
(120’) 5.6/ This route is only 40’! longer than the guidebook suggests with four bolts instead of five.
90% of the time I vouch for Todd Goss and his guidebook efforts, but this is one route he obviously was not familiar with himself and received poor 3rd hand information. The grading in general on this route is fairly mellow. This pitch, although steep and run out in places, contains plenty of positive options. The first bolt is 25’ off of the deck. Midway up you can place a #2 Camelot. The third bolt is sort of hidden back into the corner. So the route varies right into the crack and then back left onto the face after this 3rd bolt. The bolt was so out of line, I used a long runner. There is no 5th bolt. Traverse left onto varnish edges and then up to the belay ledge. This station is fixed (2007) for your mid rappel station (using two ropes!).
(50’) 5.8/ As with the first pitch, this is a longer pitch than stated in the guide book. Traverse out left to a bolt that is kind of hard to see at first. Work straight up vertical on real positive varnish holds to the 2nd bolt. This route is not climbed that often, so use caution and check the holds for fractures, etc.
Once you hit that 2nd bolt, start an angled traverse back right through yet another bolt. It is a little run out but you can clove hitch some larger acmes if concerned. Then it is quite run out from the 3rd bolt to the anchor.
(60’) 5.8/ The grade seems soft for me on this pitch compared to the older routes in Snow Canyon. This is an all trad pitch. Move out left over sloping ground to some positive varnish and proceed up into the crack that rides the left side of the huge corner below the roof above. Place #3’s and #4’s at will until you get to a small ledge that takes small gear to pull out left. I used a #3 TCU by reaching up and out left. After that it is a little anticlimactic as you reach the top of the chimney above the roof. Protect in a variety of cracks as you bring up the 2nd.
Down climb the chimney to the north and you will find (2007) (photo) a slung sandstone bolder used for rappel. In 2007 it had fairly new cordellete on it. Rappel back to the 1st pitch station and rappel to ground from there using double 50m ropes as a minimum. We had a single 60m rope, as per the guide book suggestion, and it does not do the rappel.
I left a #11 hex 10 meters from the ground. I had to rap over a significant arch knowing the rope did not reach the ground and not knowing what options I would have to place gear. Luckily I found a nasty flaring crack that I just got by with (photo).
Double 50m ropes, #2, #3 and #4 camelots, small nuts and/or #3 TCU, and whatever your lucky pieces are. One long runner, quite a few medium slings. Extra webbing or cordellete for the stations, rarely climbed route.
External LinksSnow Canyon State Park
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