Easy but varied climb in the center of East Face. Good choice for first, last or rest day. Or you may prepare yourself for Inferno by this route, by abseil you may see 2 pitches include the crux one. Fast approach makes it very comfortable! In addition in the shade after midday, so it's pleasent in hot days. The route keeps the crux(traverse) for the last move. Keep in mind that if you go wrong there you may find yourself at 6b without protection...
As for Mumkin
- from the Rest House to follow the road that is rise up to ruins. To pass through them and to turn to the left. On a wagging footpath to approach through boulders to a chimney in the left part of a wall. To scramble up on simple rocks to a wide visable fireplace. Turn left nearby Inferno's crack, climb wide and slaby chimney(3) to the horizontal white belt. Continue about 20 meters to the clear crack system.
1st pitch 5c/25m
: the route starts in the stright wide crack with good openbook and friction climbing. The crack is going a little in the right direction. 1st belay in the big and comfortable terrace.
2nd pitch 5b/30m
: the line continues to the left with simple climbing inside fireplace. Sometimes the protection in very unusual places at hiden cracks - use long slings!!! At the end the line leaves the fireplace and going at face to the left, a couple exposed moves... Belay in the comfortable shelf.
3rd pitch 5c+/25m
: trought short crack for left hand layback route goes to the predestal, then about 4 meters of fanny slab to the left and then the exposed traverse (crux) to the Inferno's belay
Descent by Inferno
Descent by the Inferno's belays with 2 abseils (40 meters each), about half an hour. But be carefull, the ropes are jamming at the first abseil - if so, you will need to climb the crux of the Inferno(6b)!!!
Standard set of trad and personal gear. 2x50m ropes. Most usefull - big cams, tricams, many long slings - a lot of corners...