Not too many routes have ben done in THE WINDOW area, on the East Face of Devils Tower. In October 2008 Patrick, Dave and I went exploring. This route is one crack directly left of Roayal Robbins' Ultra-Classic WINDOW Route (the First A4 route on the Tower). This new line would be Dave first time placing pins !! He took out and powered on,for about 50 ft. Then the crack narrowed significantly and I went up to take a look.....Glad that we had the 80 meter rope !!!
Scramble up to the East Ledges (Soler, El Cracko) and keep going to the right. 4th Class climbing (oh, be careful) takes You over the WINDOW area (DUSK IN DOGTOWN, LET ME GO WILD, ANIMAL CRACKER LAND, ETC). This route takes the crack directly left of the Robbins' WINDOW Route.
First Ascent By Frank Sanders & Dave Hardman. October, 2008. One Wild Pitch!!
Pitch 1 & Only. A4(~80 meters) Aid up easy for about 50 ft(A1). Here the crack pinches. I continued up on 42 of those #1 Beaks and a couple RURPS. Most Hair-ball stuff I've ever done.(A4?) Set up a Good Gear Anchor directly at/under the Big Roof.
Pitch 2 & 3. Follow the WINDOW Route to the Tower Top.
We'll be back and look for a new way through the roofs, later.
Yeh !! Standard Aid Rack, Blades and 40+ of those #1 Beaks. Oh Yes, an 80 meter rope is Necessary !!! There is no place to stop, short of the Bog Roofs.
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