Wall Of Early Morning Fright

Approach

Take the same approach used for Duet (5.8).

Route Description

Locate a right facing corner, just 20 feet right of 'Duet' and just above the east gully descent to routes on the north side of Chimney Rock Spire.

Pitch #1: Ascend this corner (5.8) for 100' to the base of a steep ramp. Belay here (lots of exposure!) before ascending the 2nd pitch up the ramp.

Pitch #2: Begin some awkward climbing up the ramp (5.9) using a 5" off-width crack (big gear!!) for protection. Continue up the ramp till it narrows and bends left and up. Climb an additional 25 feet before reaching an alcove . Belay at this alcove. Pitch length: 160'+

Pitch #3: This pitch is short (70'). Start out of the right side of the alcove and the up onto a blunt arete using large face holds and cracks (5.6/5.7). Belay at the summit.

THE DESCENT:

From the summit, rap 20' to the bolted anchor (located on the southeastern side, toward Dinner Wall) then rap approx. 100' to the next bolted anchor (just above 'Duet'), then one more 80' rap to the ground. It is possible to do one rappel to the ground from the top of the second pitch with two 60 meter ropes but it will be very difficult to pull the ropes down. In my last experience there, we had our ropes get caught up in a few chickenheads above. Use good judgement before pulling your ropes.

Essential Gear

+ Two 60 meter ropes (for the rappel)
+ Pro to 5" (large cams and Aliens helpful)
+ 2' Slings (6)

Miscellaneous Info

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