Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Lat/Lon: 41.16217°N / 105.3761°W
Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope, Bouldering, Scrambling
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Elevation: 8600 ft / 2621 m

Overview

As one drives into the Vedauwoo Recreation Area and down to the two main trailheads, there is a long wall on the left consisting of three distinct parts: a left wall, a huge central bulging wall, and a right wall. The wall on the left is Walt's Wall, the bulging wall in the middle is the Coke Bottle, and the one on the right is Fall Wall.

In Central Vedauwoo's Turtle Rock area, these are the three most-accessible climbing areas; it only takes a few minutes to reach any of them.

Named for Walt Sticker, who climbed here in 1954, this was one of the original climbing spots at Vedauwoo, with the first routes established in the 1940s. Walt's Wall is home to both what are probably the most popular multi-pitch at Vedauwoo and the must-do moderate at Vedauwoo: Walt's Wall and Edward's Crack, respectively.

Hassler's Hatbox, Walt's Wall, and the Coke Bottle
Hassler's Hatbox, Walt's Wall, and the Coke Bottle

Walt's Wall, the Coke Bottle, and Friction Tower at Sunrise
Walt's Wall, the Coke Bottle, and Friction Tower at Sunrise


The granite at Vedauwoo is infamous for its ability to claim skin and blood. Tape is recommended. So are long pants if you're going to be doing any of the off-widths; some solid climbers even wear neoprene kneepads.

With 19 established routes (mostly trad, 1-3 pitches, but some sport and toprope) ranging from 5.4 to 5.12a and at least 5 bouldering problems from V3 to V10, there is plenty to climb here and there is something for everyone.

Among the coolest features at Vedauwoo are the many potholes found atop the crags. Often holding water and sometimes quite deep, they help frame many a nice photographic composition.

Hassler's Hatbox from Walt's Wall
Hassler's Hatbox from Walt's Wall

The Walt's Wall page at Vedauwoo.org is an excellent source of information, and the Mountain Project page for Walt's Wall is pretty good as well.

Also, try the Forest Service site. Though it's not good for climbing information, it's decent for general information.

Walt's Wall, Sunrise
Walt's Wall and the left end of the Coke Bottle at sunrise

Getting There

From I-80 between Laramie and Cheyenne, leave the highway at Exit 329, marked for Vedauwoo. This is about 16 miles from Laramie. Take Vedauwoo Road east and drive 1.2 miles before turning left onto a well-signed road for the Vedauwoo Recreation Area. Stop at the self-pay station and then proceed. Signs point you to the campground, picnic areas, and trailheads. Park at either the West Turtle Rock TH or the Box Canyon one.

Vedauwoo Road is usually clear of snow by May and sometimes as early as April.

Routes

Rather than list all the routes and problems when links on this page will take you to descriptions of them, I will instead list what are considered the classic trad routes here, from left to right as you face the wall:
  • Foolishness (5.4, 2 pitches)
  • Walt's Wall (5.4, 3 pitches)
  • Friction Slide (5.7, 1 pitch)
  • Jake Direct (5.7, 1 pitch)
  • Jacquot's Face (5.7, 1 pitch)
  • Edward's Crack (5.7, 2 pitches)
  • 5.7 Cracks (5.7+, 1 pitch)
  • Satterfield's Crack (5.8, 1 pitch)
  • Mantle Route (5.9+, 1 pitch)
  • In Through the Out Door (5.10a, 1 pitch)
  • Water Streak (5.10a, 1 pitch)
  • Fourth of July Crack (5.12a, 1 pitch)
Edward's Crack (5.7)
Edward's Crack (5.7)

Walt's Wall Route, First Pitch
Walt's Wall Route, First Pitch


To descend routes up Walt's Wall, many people rap down the Walt's Wall route, which has three bolted anchor stations, but that can get crowded on busy days. Other options are using the Fourth of July anchor, anchors on Coke Bottle routes, or hiking down the NE side of the formation, which deposits one in Box Canyon. Thus, the walk-off is not a good option for anyone parking at West Turtle Rock TH.

Red Tape

The self-pay fee was, I think, in July 2014, $5 per vehicle per day. Passes are accepted.

When to Climb

May through October are best.

Camping

There is a 28-site campground in the recreation area. It is first-come, first-served and fills quickly on weekends in good weather. Vault toilets and drinking water are available, though in July 2014 the water wasn't flowing or I was just at the wrong pump. The camping fee was $10 per night in July 2014. Closed during the winter, the campground is usually open by the beginning of June.

There is a lot of dispersed camping available nearby, with some restrictions (for example, postings prohibit camping too close to the turnoff for the recreation area).






Related