Warbonnet Peak Climber's Log

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Trevor. - Jul 30, 2014 7:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2014

Absolutely Incredible  Sucess!

Chris, Catie and I climbed the south face as a team of 3 and had a great time! We climbed the chimney that starts right after you get out of the flake tunnel(center chimney?), and it was easy and had solid pro. I'd recommend at least 2 #2 camalots for the hand crack. The exposure on the summit is wild! We brought two 60m half ropes and rapped the route with no issues. Bring stuff to construct rap anchors. Oh, and the summit register is filled with water and ruined as of Aug 2014


apachedino - Oct 27, 2011 9:11 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2011

Wow!  Sucess!

Excellent! I would only take 1 rope. It makes for more rappels, but that is quite the backpack in. A small trad rack with 2-3 #2 Camelots for the splitter crack is all thats needed IMO. That drainage is amazing!


Paul1 - Aug 2, 2011 3:34 am Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2010

South Face  Sucess!

What a climb! The wind was whipping through the gap between the summit block and the rest of the mountain making the 5.6ish move feel more like a leap of faith! Unbelievable route!


jamesmc2 - Aug 28, 2010 5:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2010

Sawtooth Spleandour!  Sucess!

One of the better alpine climbs I have done. Great rock with interesting climbing. Best pitches were the splitter crack and the exposed last pitch. Beautiful setting!


NCclimber - Nov 28, 2009 3:00 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009

South Face  Sucess!

Climbed with WoundedKnee, painful cutting those ropes, but no time to re-lead the third pitch. Careful of the "5.7" finger crack on the 3rd. We took the friction path just to the left.


WoundedKnee - Aug 6, 2009 9:46 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009

Rope-eater  Sucess!

A fun, isolated climb with ncclimber. We saw nobody for the two days we camped at Bead Lakes. Had to cut both ropes on the way down, each of our ropes got caught in different places. Pete did a great job of routefinding to combine shorter rappels and downclimbing. Nervewracking!

A very fun climb. Looks like we were just the second party of the year to summit.

I thought it was stiffer than 5.7 in a couple of places.


b. - Sep 5, 2006 12:33 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2006

South Face  Sucess!

Short route, pretty casual once you get back there. We spent a few days in the feather lakes drainage to make the approach worth more. The hand crack pitch was stellar.


hkutuk - Jul 24, 2006 3:00 am Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006

Warbonnet, South Face  Sucess!

Climbed the South Face of Warbonnet Peak with Jim on a 4 day trip to the Sawtooths in Idaho. It was a tough approach and nice climbing in a great setting. Jim's trip report gives the details of the climb. Great times!


jtschanz - Jul 10, 2006 11:31 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006

South Face  Sucess!

Climbed with Haydar - the crux was definitely the approach! Cool summit in a very remote area. Trip report here.


SawtoothSean - Jan 4, 2006 9:58 pm

Route Climbed: SE Face- 5.7 Date Climbed: September 16, 2000  Sucess!

We did probably one of the easiest routes on the peak. We had a spectacular bivy spot at Bead Lakes where I found obsidian flakes (lithic debitage) giving eveidence that prehistoric man was here. Blue Rock Dome and the Mayan Temple were utterly spectacular. We started at the notch between Warbonnet and Cirque Lake Tower and the route traversed abit and zigged before giving way to that spectacular summit finish. I'd like to try that SW risge route that involves more climbing and less scrambling.


Andinistaloco - Sep 25, 2004 5:33 pm

South face, summer 1995

Incredible climb - one of the best I've ever been on. It's easy to get off-route (I never really was sure when we were on an established one) but generally not too difficult to get back on it. Exposure unbelievable up top!


rpc - Sep 3, 2003 11:03 am

Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: August 31, 2003  Sucess!

My wife Shirley and I climbed this amazing peak as part of a 3-day trip into the Sawtooths. We "discovered" Warbonnet while thumbing thru. Kearney's "Classic Climbs of the Northwest" guidebook and could not belive how little info. there was out there regarding this amzing looking mountain (could not believe no one has added it to SP before??). The climb has a pretty remote feel even over a weekend like Labor Day. The hike in is about 8 miles each way (with boat shuttle) and the latter 3 or 4 miles are x-country. You very quickly leave the crowds behind (most climbers in the area head for Elephant's Perch, most day hikers don't venture past Alpine Lake, and most backpackers head for Baron Lakes) and get this profound feeling of being totally on your own - spices up the adventure! This was probably the most amazing summit (all 1 sq. foot of it) we've ever had the pleasure of standing/sitting atop of!!

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