Warren Peak Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-19 of 19

KyleM - Jul 24, 2020 1:12 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2012

Edith Lake  Sucess!

Climbed Warren via Edith lake in 2012. Easy climb, a bit of a class 2 slog. I would recommend other peaks in the Pintlers over this one, or maybe try a different route. However the view from the top is incredible!


Peaker - Aug 9, 2015 5:33 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2015

Edith Lake Route  Sucess!

Hiked up solo via the Edith Lake route on a day with perfect weather before a weather system rolled through. It took longer than expected but this was still a fun hike with a nicely wide-ranging view.

tdub354 - Oct 6, 2013 5:43 pm

climbed with jiggs

This is a great mtn range.


distressbark - Jul 29, 2012 6:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2012

via Edith Lake  Sucess!

Set up camp at Edith Lake and headed straight uphill from our tent site. Topped out on the ridge just west of the "false summit" at 9,400+ feet. Easy traverse and climb along the ridge to the top of Warren. Threatening clouds forced us off the summit early, which was unfortunate, 'cause the views were spectacular! What a great peak.

Descended to the saddle between Warren and the false summit; from there we headed straight downhill, following dry drainages and game trails to the woods just above Edith Lake. Once we hit the trail, we were back at camp in less than 10 minutes. Enjoyed a brief hail storm, sporadic thunder showers, and a double rainbow at Edith Lake. Awesome trip!


urnotreal - Jul 24, 2012 12:56 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2012

Great Trip  Sucess!

Came in and ran up from Edith Lake. My first time in the Pintlers and got rewarded with some amazing views and perfect weather. Met some Erretts at Johnson Lake that night and spent four more days hiking all the way around this guy.

mtn ear

mtn ear - Apr 10, 2011 10:53 am Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2007

Climb with Kids  Sucess!

Summited with my son Frank and his friend Jake. Both were 8. Spent night camped at Edith Lake. Jake's first overnight backpack!


MTfred19 - Mar 5, 2011 2:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2008

SW face from Edith Lake  Sucess!

Camped at Edith Lake. Lightning and hail on the way down from the summit!


lonewolf2401 - Sep 19, 2009 1:04 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2009

Warren Peak via Tamarack Lake  Sucess!

This was one of the most incredible trips of my life. For four days I had the Carpp and Tamarack drainages all to myself. Not another soul, save a fly fisherman I happened across for 10 minutes at Tamarack.
I followed the north shoreline of Tamarack around so I could access the talus slopes below Porter Ridge.
Then I made a diagonal traverse until I topped out on the ridge, joining the normal route. This was simple class 1 or 2, and made for a much quicker climb.
The climb was very enjoyable, with the views rewarding you the whole way along the ridge. A fair amount of wind on the summit section, but can't complain.
On the way down, I reached the bottom of the summit ridge, and decided to "short cut it" down the first gully before the prominent humps on the ridge. It was a short cut, but in distance only.
The mental drain trying to keep from breaking an ankle on all that talus and scree was a pain, and the going pretty slow. Since I was all alone, I wanted to make sure I was careful, and not ruin this trip with a rescue!
If you enjoy talus, go for it, otherwise you would be better advised to just reverse the route, and run down the ridge.
Views from the top are incredible! Saw two new fires in the distance that had just started. I pray this area never burns.
Anyway, I will post my photos soon, thanks and climb safe

alpine climber

alpine climber - Jul 26, 2008 5:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2008

clear skies  Sucess!

Climbed Warren and then spent the night at Edith Lake. The Middle Fork trailhead was incredibly busy from what I'm used to. Fun day for 10,000+.

Tom Fralich

Tom Fralich - Jun 24, 2008 4:35 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2008

N Face Couloir (solo)  Sucess!

Hiked in to Warren Pass and made camp near the tarn below the route. Only got down to about 39F overnight, so the snow was still sloppy at 5AM. Left the tent at around 5:30 and got to the summit at 7AM. Didn't find anything close to 60 degrees...45 degrees at best. Descended the whole couloir facing out with a fun glissade at the bottom. Saw a ranger near Carrp Lake on the hike in, but otherwise, not a soul.


mountainjunco - Feb 1, 2008 2:16 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006

Warren peak  Sucess!

Climbed from Tamarack lake up east ridge, I think.


aintlifegrand - Mar 23, 2007 6:21 pm Date Climbed: Feb 4, 2005

Forget which route, easy hiking route  Sucess!

fun winter snow slog

T Sharp

T Sharp - Jun 2, 2006 4:51 am

North Couloir  Sucess!

Great trip with the Rocky Mountaineers. Met Luke Casady [RIP] on that climb and we became fast friends and partners. We got stormed on on the descent, lightning and graupel, Luke and I were faster that everyone else and had to wait in horrible conditions for everyone to join us at the tarn.


kyledod - Sep 20, 2005 8:34 pm

Route Climbed: Edith Lake Route Date Climbed: August 2004  Sucess!

Spent the night at Edith Lake, then scambled up the peak the next day. Cool cloudy weather, but we did not see another person the entire trip.

Jerry L

Jerry L - Aug 9, 2005 9:08 pm

Route Climbed: North Face Couloir Date Climbed: July, 2005

We hiked in and set-up camp at Carrp Lake. We decided to go ahead for the summit that afternoon. We made it to the base of the mounatin, hiked thru the loose rock, and then headed up the snow couloir for several hundred vertical feet. We then decided that we should have brought along our crampons, so we bagged the summit attempt and headed down. As we neared camp, we noticed a forest fire in the distance (towards my truck), so we decided to pack it in, and we hiked back to the truck, and then drove back to Butte. One long day in some great country.


montanaboy - Aug 9, 2005 12:10 am

Route Climbed: Edith Lake route Date Climbed: August 6, 2005  Sucess!

A nice trail, a sunny day, a wide open alpine route, friendly people on the mountain, a sea of peaks and lakes to view from the summit - all the things that make Montana great.


Saintgrizzly - Sep 29, 2004 8:50 am

Route Climbed: Tamarack Lake up; descending via Porter Ridge Date Climbed: September 27, 2004  Sucess!

What an absolutely terrific, beautiful mountain! Wonderful views in the distance of the Bitterroots, Big Hole Range, and the always incredible Pioneer Mountains--and all this from the fifth highest peak in the greater Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness area!

Long, long day, begun before the sun came up, and us returning to vehicles almost 2 hours after dark. Climbed with fellow SPer Cory (pintlerpro) for the first time, and just past Tamarack Lake, we took a very enjoyable route up the mountain, which gave us class three, with a bit of lower class four work; much more interesting and fun than just going up the couloirs!

Best weather of the past three or four weeks, with enough snow having melted during the recent weather moderation that footing wasn't a problem, and summit weather, though cool, was quite nice! All in all, a great day on a great peak!


pintlerpro - Jun 30, 2004 11:16 am

Route Climbed: All Ridges and Faces

I'v bivied up on the summit and small bats come out of the rocks and try to get in your sleeping bag.

Good summit , Good veiws of 3 major mountain ranges in Idaho and Mt.

I have been up Warren Peak between 20 to 25 times now.

-first climbed when I was 13 years old

-5 winter time ascents all solo.

-2 times in 1 day.(dont ask)

-made the summit in every month


hgrapid - Mar 22, 2004 10:34 am

Route Climbed: via Edith Lake Date Climbed: August 2001  Sucess!

Permit me to recount a short story from going up this great peak. Me and a friend found our way up the peak a few weeks earlier on a perfectly clear day. This time, I climbed with my supervisor, a really cool guy, and did the 17 mile round trip in a day. On the summit we got caught in a lightning storm. Dark, storm clouds punished surrounding mountains with rain and hail and electric fury. At the summit of Warren is a rock pile where you can sit down and have the back of your head protected. We sat there to wait the storm out. It got closer and closer until we could see lightning right in front of our face. 5 miles away, 3 miles away, 1 mile away, CRAP! It hailed on us for 5-10 minutes. Then we made our way down the mountain, scurrying down wet rock. I was not scared. It was an exciting experience though.

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