Climbed the Prow in a day (to the top) with Hamik, after hearing so much about it. Led P 4 5 6 7, part of 10th linked with 11. 17 hours car to car. Descent sucked, but was doable in the dark without too much trouble. Got off route and backtracked a few times.
Our goal was to sleep out on the rock- we converted an old water barrel into a haul bag and named her Big Burtha. did the approach with Burtha roped to my head with Birkenstocks! Man, being 16 was the best! Slept on the ledge then bailed in the morning.
An excellent learning experience, bailed off in the dark. Woohoo!
Sept 1985: Soloed the Prow using a fat biner and a clove hitch. Hauled my gear in an army duffel and slept in a hammock.
May 1987: Did a car-to-car one day trip on the South face with Chuck Blackwell
March 1989: South face with Pat Sturzenacker
In a day with steve. He did all the aid and I freed. Actually fun... whoa.
Finally climbed and topped this bitch out! Took me so many tries as I hit mental limitations, huge crowds, and crappy weather on previous attempts. Hauled and walked off....felt more fitting than rapping off.
Soloed the first pitch by accident. I led the odds. Seth took the evens. On P4 he dropped a climbing shoe, so he finished the rest of the route wearing one climbing shoe and one of my 5.10 approach shoes--onsighting all of his leads except for a fall on the final pitch. An awesome climb--one of the best I've done this season.
1979: S Face (second big wall) with Young Chu & Rick Berg
1985: Winter ascent of the Prow with Bill Crouse over New Years
A fun climb with my old partner Bob Cox. We drove all night from OC, hiked to the base when he got there, climbed it, had a miserable bivy on top, hiked down the North Dome Gully and drove home. A fast three day trip. I read Babbit at the belays for a college report due that week.
Rob & I started at 14.30 at the base day 1- wrong time to start! Only got up to Dinner Ledge that night. Next day, P4 took both of us forever (1st involved big wall & aid leads/follows). F&*%ing exhausted by the time I got to the belay (following). Kor’s Roof is a MONSTER!! Big ups to Kor & Chris Fredericks on their FA (+ style & time it took them to do it)! By the time I got to the standard 2-bolt anchor where parties rap down to dinner ledge (to jug up to & finish the climb the next day), we decided it was time to go down, as there was no way we were finishing that day (& we were out of water & had to be at work the next day).
All in all, a fun first big wall experience- First ½ of P5 was probably the most enjoyable for me. Lookout from Dinner Ledge was absolutely fantastic (one of my favorite campsites), & views of Half Dome amazing. Next time, I’ll make sure to attain our highpoint the FIRST day! I can see why they call them BIG walls! I’ll be back.
Went back & got the job done. Amazingly we left the Awahnee parking lot at 6.30- this would prove crucial to our success- we shared Dinner Ledge with a good 10 or so other people that night (there were also others at the 'Honeymoon Suite' ledge above)! Rob got midway through P6 before we called it a night & descended to the madness (party) below...
A late start the 2nd day as well as taking forever to lead 7 put us at the belay above at 15.00. We decided to go for it. Rob blasted up the next 2 (or so) pitches, doing a fine job. I flew up the last pitch (& a half), though the rope got stuck 10' from the very top of the route. By the time Rob topped out, darkness had set.
Rapp'ing the route, we reached the car at 1.30 (ouch).
A memorable climb, but it felt good to do the job right. It was also extremely cool to witness a big avalanche on Clouds Rest from the bivy ledge. Big wall #2 (in reality #2.5) under the belt!!
9.18 - 9.20.'9
Climbing had been too simple & enjoyable recently , so Rob & I decided we needed to do Wall #3- The Prow.
Did the approach to the base on Thursday night, Coors in hand. Bivied at the base. Started climbing the next morn' about 9 or so. There was a party of 2 Brits camped out at the top of P2, but at least at the start, had the climb to ourselves, which was great. Rob did a great job of freeing the first part of P1. An offset blew on me on P2, sending me back to the ledge- good thing the Hybrid below held (I hit the deck right as the rope caught, & impacted my R ankle- luckily felt fine after 2 days).
First portaledge experience @ Anchorage Ledge was cool. Next day we made it to, & set up camp, at Tapir Terrace, with lines fixed to the anchor above (that pitch felt harder than C1 to me). Party behind us aborted after making it to the Terrace at dark, & rapped (the follower's first aid experience- what an introduction!). Rob did the 1st P above the next day, & I the pitch after. After aiding into the roof/off-width, freed the ensuing crack (my favorite free on the route). Rob finished off the last gnarly pitch (cheers, mate), & we topped out around 14.00 or so Sunday afternoon. God bless the party that left water at the top.
After forgetting to print out descent beta on the N Dome Gully (which I'd avoided for years on numerous Royal Arches climbs, as well as our previous 2 attempts on the S face, due to its reputation), I was a bit apprehensive about this part of the trip, but it turned out okay- phew! Still sucked with an 80(?) lb haul bag, though... Back in The Valley in time for a few Radler Masses, an awesome brief swim in the river, & even made it to La Estrella for a fatty quesadilla!
Great trip, & another big wall in the books, man. Let the good times roll!
Three of us did this way back in '75. We almost walked off a ledge in the dark while descending without headlamps.
did the prow and the standard rtes. the descent sucks and scared me more than the climbs!
I climbed the Prow with a very strong Brit and for the first time I used a portaledge. I enjoyed the wall and rigging belays, jugging leading: the whole game. After this wall I was "ready for The Nose". It ook a lot of cajoling from the Brit.
First big wall attempt. Lead P1 and cleaed P2, P3. Was taking too much time and didn't take enough time off of work. Need more practice to get faster!
Did this with Ben. 90-95 degrees. Not enough water. My brain was ready to explode when I got to the top. There was a guy who was caching some water on top (for a later solo climb) and he gave me a quart. Great route but I suffered on my first wall.
Great climb, and first wall top out. Climbed with Roni Stettler (Swiss).
We fixed up to dinners´ ledge and came back next day to finish up the route.
Skull Queen... '99
Ten Days After.... '02
Best view of sunset on Half Dome.....
Skull Queen 1995
After attempting several times in '92 and '93, John Pfieffer and I finally bagged our first "wall." Sure it took us over 15 years of climbing before doing it-some of us operate on a slower curve.