Take the West Face Approach. This route is between Tulgye Wood and McCarthy West Face. It is easily identified as it is a right facing corner that appears to end at a roof.
The First Roof Crux
This route was first climbed in 1991 by Eric Rhicard and Mark Smedley. Although it is a one pitch route, it is clearly a 3-Star Classic. Those who crave more climbing, may continue up Tulgey Wood to take a peek at the Summit or explore the plethora of top rope opportunities available from the Bolt Anchors.
Pitch 1. ( 155 ft., 5.11b) Climb this right facing corner, up to the roof and over left to a spacious belay ledge with a 2 Big Bolt anchor. This pitch is well protected and involves finger jams, hand jams, stemming, face holds and a simply horrendous move to the left, under the roof, to gain the belay ledge. Clip the bolts and know that you have just passed a stiff test..
Finish. Rap out or continue up Tulgey Wood, or pull a top rope on A Bridge Too Far (5.11d) or try a top rope on the face climb right beneath you Mystery Express (5.13)
Pondering the Final Move !!
RP's, small stoppers, Friends. You can sew it up !!
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.