Geographical classification: Western Alps >> Pennine Alps > Weisshorn group
Weisshorn is a massive 3 ridged pyramid.
The Weisshorn is not as popular as the Matterhorn is, but is a higher peak towering to 4506 meters. The ascent is slightly harder and longer than Matterhorn ascend, but of higher quality.
Its normal route via the East Ridge is physically and technically demanding, with a tricky and exposed rock ridge requiring care.
Weisshorn summit is snow or ice slope up to 45 degrees. The altitude is part of its difficulty, and the vertical gain to summit is 1600 meters.
The route is done within 2-3 days from Zermatt:
1st day for the approach hike from the town of Randa to the Weisshorn Hut
2nd day to ascend the peak and return to the hut or the road
3rd day in case staying at the hut after a long day of climbing.
Weisshorn is one of the most beautiful peak of the Alps.
Easiest way up = east ridge : AD+
Because of the difficulties and the long distance to
the summit ( 1600 Hm ), there are not many climbers who go's to the summmit.
This page is dedicated to Rahel Maria Liu. She was a very nice person and we will never forget her.
staring point for normal route: Weisshorn hütte ( tel: 027-9671262)
Author: alpenkalb :
you can climb the Weisshorn by three ridges:
1. east (normal, but not easy) from the Weisshorn hut (2932 m):
(7h, 1600 Hm, AD, III-(sometimes), II et I, rock and snow, 45° at the end)
Normal route 14 pictures topo. Clic on the Weisshorn picture to get the detailed topo.
2. north, quite long (8h) from cabane de Tracuit (3256 m) and perhaps via Bishorn (6h) (4153 m), AD+, III+ (sometimes), rock and ice mixed, 450Hm from Weisshorn pass.
3. Schali (S0) ridge , no ice, rock climbing from Schali-Bivouac (3750). D, IV (sometimes), III, II, 6h from Schalijoch, Schali-Bivouac ca be reached from the Weisshorn hut or from Zinal and Arpietta hut , complex aproach on glacier.
and with more difficulties climb west face
4.O face (Younggrat): D-, IV- (sometimes), III, II, 8h from cabane d'Ar Pitetta to Grand Gendarme, 1550Hm, rock climbing, possible for return.
5. NE spur: D+, 55°, 6h for all face, 1100Hm , snow and ice glace, complex approach on glacier.
Parking fees in Täsch or Randa. Prefer private parking places in Täsch.
camping and hotels in the villages
Weisshorn hut (2932m) SAC hut
situation: S-E of Weisshorn
how to go there: Rhône valley - Visp - Stalden - Mattertal - Randa
how to climb there: Randa - Eien - Rötiboden - Jatz: 4.30 h
hut phone: 027-9671262
Info - booking: Renate & Luzius Kuster, Haus Feuerdorn, 3928 Randa, 027 967 38 53
Summits to climb from hut: Weisshorn 4505m
Tracuit hut (3256m) SAC hut
situation: S-E of Les Diablons
how to go there: Rhône valley - Sierre - Vissoie - Ayer - Zinal
how to climb there: Zinal - Roc de la Vache: 4.30 h
open: july- 15 september
hut phone: 027 - 4751500
Info - booking: Noël Melly, , 3961 Ayer, 027 475 10 89 (Tel+Fax)
Summits to climb from hut: Bishorn (4153m), Weisshorn (4505m), Les Diablons (3592m)
Schalijoch Biwak (3765 m) Schalijoch Biwak (3765 m) SAC
situation: S of Weisshorn (Schalijoch )
how to go there: Rhône valley - Visp - Stalden - St. Niklaus - Randa
how to climb there (with difficulties):
Randa - Schatzplatte - Stockji - Schaligletscher: 8-10h
Weisshornhütte - Schaligletscher: 5h
Cabane Arpitetta - Glacier du Weisshorn: 5h
open: not guarded
hut phone: no phone
Info - booking: Renate & Luzius Kuster, Haus Feuerdorn, 3928 Randa, 027 967 38 53 / 027 967 12 62
Summits to climb from hut: Weisshorn - Schaligrat route(4505m)
Arpitetta hut (2786m) SAC hut
situation: West of Weisshorn
how to go there: Rhône valley - Val d'Annivier - Val de Zinal - Zinal
how to climb there:
1. Zinal - Le Vichiesso - P.1907 - Le Chiesso - Louchelet: 4.30 h
2. Zinal - Pas du Chasseur - Le Chiesso: 4h
open: mid june- mid september
hut phone: 027-4754028
Info - booking: Jean-Daniel Carrard, Rue Trévelin 132, 1170 Aubonne, 021 808 59 01
Summits to climb from hut: Tête de Milon 3691m, Weisshorn 4505m
This is the side that gave the name of the mountain. This face can be see from very far from Rhône valley.
The only common (but still difficult) route here is Grand Gendarme spur route.
They are lots of rockfall in this face.
Wisse Schijen is a secondary summit situated on Mattertal side.
1861: John Tyndall and J. J. Bennen
Schaligrat: 9/2/1895: J.M. Biner, A. Imboden, E. Broome
Young ridge: 9/7/1900: G.W Young, L. Theytaz, B. Theytaz
Author: Rahel Maria Liu
Date: July 15, 2004 4:10 PM
First ascent of the NE-face: 1871 by John Hawthorn Kitson, Christian Almer, Ulrich Almer
First ascent of the most famous route through the NE-face (the exposed big rib in the middle of the face, compare route overview: D+, 1100hm, 6h): 1909 by Oliver Perry-Smith, Whintrop Young, Joseph Knubel.