|Lat/Lon:||41.43071°N / 72.89044°W|
|Route Type:||Technical Rock Climb|
|Time Required:||Less than two hours|
POISON IVY can be a problem along the base ... however I have only once been afflicted there, and that was halfway up the wall ! Try not to climb through suspicious looking green stuff !
The climb is located on (and under) the prominent "rib" running halfway down from the top somewhere right of the center of the cliff. This is a bit tough to spot.
I include (below) a not so great picture of the route.
Start from the ledge about 15 feet above the actual base (you can scramble up and across to this easily enough). A tricky first crack with difficult to find footholds and an unhelpful right wall. The sweet but committing little friction traverse to the right above that. This takes you to a decently-sized pocket. The marvelously demanding, yet mercifully short, layback dihedral which is up and just right of the pocket. The lightning-bolt finger crack which leads you left and out over the void and up to a big fat belay ledge. This ledge is HUGE and is an excellent place for a belay.
Step right off the ledge over the never-never, great handholds and then your around the bottom of the "rib" and looking up at cracks and ledges. Keep the body away from the rock, give your feet room, mantle here, mantle there. Up to a pocket decorated with the rusty and ragged remains of the worlds oldest pin (I bet it is one of Weissner’s). Protect, pause and then push off left. Finally I can do this without too much pause. Swing around the arete and then go straight up.
Also, the 5.6 rating comes from the CT method of rating ... 5.6 is the EASIEST KNOWN WAY rating ... when you do it the first time it can seem much harder.
Keith Hoek - Nov 4, 2003 10:14 am - Hasn't votedRoute Comment
Connecticut is "Traprock Central" ... if you don't know what that means, or at least what risks are associated with climbing on traprock, then maybe you should find out first.
And for God's sake buy David Fasulo's excellent guide about rock climbing in Connecticut. As dudes go, Dave is one of the coolest.
ADKeditor - Nov 6, 2016 1:48 pm - Voted 7/10Trip report
I climbed this cool little route in late October (2016) with a climber I met at the crag. He wasn't planning on climbing that day, so I loaned him my climbing shoes to lead it, and I wore my approach shoes to follow. I wrote a short piece about the climb for Adirondack Almanack. (Wiessner also climbed in the Dacks.) Here's a link: http://www.adirondackalmanack.com/2016/11/wiessner-left-mark-cliffs-northeast.html