The "Cleft" proved to be slightly more challenging for us than the current write-up describes. Presumably higher water (mid-July) forced us onto the rock earlier, at a different location. A ~180+ foot pitch of solid 5.7 placed us on exposed ledges significantly above the creek. This pitch could be broken in two, with a manky pin belay at about the 80' mark (several other pitons along the route). Expect loose rock. We soloed this pitch but it is highly unrecommended- a handful of nuts, slings, and small cams should suffice for the competent rock climber. You could probably pull this off with a 100' cord- but the descent might be tricky.
Looking further up the creek the difficulties appeared to continue, forcing us to climb and descend an extra 700'+ to the south before reaching Scott Lake. After this, the summit was easy enough, but we descended Tourist Creek to avoid descending the Cleft. I'm sure we missed something in Tourist- but it was a messy hell-hole compared to the 'clean' Wells.
VonCloud - Jul 20, 2012 11:34 am - Voted 8/10
Some Tricky BusinessThe "Cleft" proved to be slightly more challenging for us than the current write-up describes. Presumably higher water (mid-July) forced us onto the rock earlier, at a different location. A ~180+ foot pitch of solid 5.7 placed us on exposed ledges significantly above the creek. This pitch could be broken in two, with a manky pin belay at about the 80' mark (several other pitons along the route). Expect loose rock. We soloed this pitch but it is highly unrecommended- a handful of nuts, slings, and small cams should suffice for the competent rock climber. You could probably pull this off with a 100' cord- but the descent might be tricky.
Looking further up the creek the difficulties appeared to continue, forcing us to climb and descend an extra 700'+ to the south before reaching Scott Lake. After this, the summit was easy enough, but we descended Tourist Creek to avoid descending the Cleft. I'm sure we missed something in Tourist- but it was a messy hell-hole compared to the 'clean' Wells.