Another whacky aid climb added to the list. The west butte is awesome! Crazy weather out there.
Went back to climb West Butte for the third time. Did this route again. It is scary. I pulled the final pin out by hand so anyone going after me will need to place a new one. Once again, nobody has signed the register since last time I was up there.
What a "climb"
Couple of notes:
I was pretty terrified leading this. As far as how hard the aid is will be determined whether any of the gear holds or not. Couple pieces were rotted in half and could be pulled out with your hand. Everything moved severely! I was so scared. Mandatory free moves at the top due to rotted out gear. 5.7
New anchor up top! (3 nine inch nails) Interesting rappel.
After some helpful info, Noah and I made a successful ascent of the east and west buttes. The west butte is a dangerous route as the pins have deteriorated severely. We agreed the face impossible to freeclimb and the aiding was precarious. The steepest wall overhangs slightly and a fall would send you straight to the ground even with screamers. The rotten nature of the rock/mud makes gear nearly impossible to place. We left an ammo can register on the summit and there were no signs of recent ascents. Would love to know more info on other ascents past or present. Please approach this climb with EXTREME care.
Two high school buddies of mine, Ken and Bill, as well as myself made many trips to the Buttes in 1967 and 1968 before finally locating the iron spikes and pitons on the Northeast Face. We made our first successful ascent on March 17, 1968 and climbed it five additional times, the last being on December 14, 1970. The climbs were made with minimal equipment (a chunk of rope from the barn) and some digging implements. Didn't know what carabiners were yet. The route has obviously de-graded over the years but was equally as dangerous for us given our equipment and lack of knowledge. These buttes were my introduction into climbing and the entire area holds very fond memories.