West Face

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West Face

West Face

Aiding off of a single (crappy) "bolt" on pitch 4 of West Face route. The pitch, though short is harder than it looks from the belay and a bit runout (the worst of it is aidable and protected by this shitty bolt; December 30, 2005).
rpc
on Jan 3, 2006 7:41 pm
Lat/Lon: 38.63310°N / 109.6023°W
Image ID: 143652

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SawtoothSean

SawtoothSean - Jan 17, 2006 10:06 pm - Voted 10/10

Ethics

RPC- do you tend to aid the harder stuff or free it (or maybe it depends)? I find myself in the struggle of the moment, just aiding or "french freeing" some things by instinct, since my technical skills are not to the level of some of these tougher routes. Nice Photos- captures the struggle and effort nicely.

rpc

rpc - Jan 18, 2006 1:00 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Ethics

Sean,



I like to free whatever I can but my skills often fall short :(



Summary of my ethics:



If I think that in another year or two, I can lead something clean, I'll hold off on trying it with hangdogging. On the other hand, Argon West Face was sandbagged by the guidebook (a lot!). Even, had I known what the free rating was, I have little chance of working up to mid 11's on soft Entrada sandstone. In short, in this case and FOR ME getting the summit by generous aid/french free was good enough. No intention to go back for the route and try for a cleaner lead (it's just not that nice). There are things we've done that someday - if I have a chance - I'll try and redo more cleanly.



What I said above does not pertain to short, crag routes (like Smith esp.). I'd prefer to lead a route that's out of my league with rests and hangs rather than work it on top rope which I don't find interesting. Hope being that with enough tries, I'll get it clean one day (and it seems to improve my performance on slightly easier routes).



My additional point is to try and make the fact that I did hang/aid on something explicit if anyone asks me about a given climb.



Anyway, it's all a personal call OR at least it's a call bet. you and your partner IMHO. The fact that I climb with my wife (guaranteed partner) tends to make us immune in a way to people's opinion to some extent. I'm not looking as hard to impress as I'm never looking to climb with other people.



Anyway, sorry for the long winded bs :)

cheers and good climbing!

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