West Ridge Normal Climber's Log

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fubar7500 - Jun 21, 2022 9:26 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2022

Weissmieshutte  Sucess!

perfect weather


Tugrul - Jul 13, 2021 2:58 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2021

West Ridge Solo  Sucess!

Came up from Weissmies hut using the entire length of the West flank. Although the glacier makes for a much nicer approach and looks conductive to soloing, most people I saw in groups that were on it were tightly bunched together.

In my opinion, the route offers a less satisfying rock climb than south ridge of Weissmies. There is a brief slab section that is maybe 10m high that is rated UIAA II with the holds ample and positive. Depending on conditions it may get interesting up top where one needs to negotiate snowfields and some mixed terrain.
For me the conditions were good, no ice and plenty of hard snow.

All in all, 5 hours up 3 hours down.


markhallam - Mar 11, 2014 5:54 pm Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2012

Scenic route  Sucess!

Climbed un-roped with Rob G. Lagginhorn is unimpressive to look at - but very impressive to be on - great views all around - and delightful finish to tiny & exposed summit.


cezartr - Aug 28, 2011 2:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2011

WSW ridge solo  Sucess!

My first 4000er! Great weather that day. Climbed along the west ridge avoiding the glacier. Fantastic view from the top, but I could not enjoy for a long time. I was among the first 5 people on the summit and I had to leave soon to avoid the traffic jam that would have obviously followed. All my way down I heard the word "stein" (stone) and I was happy to be far away. Descending I took the route over the almost harmless glacier. The way down to Saas Grund is very long and is not only descent but also mild ascent. But the beer in Camping Mischabel and the company of a nice couple from Catalonia that evening was very nice. Perfect conditions and perfect day!

Peter K

Peter K - Aug 19, 2009 4:04 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2009

Route Climbed: WSW ridge  Sucess!

Leading an alpine club youth group (JDAV).
Coming from the Weissmies Hut, after traversing the Weissmies the day before.
We had some icy parts just below the summit, more demanding than the Weissmies.


brade - Mar 19, 2009 9:54 am Date Climbed: Mar 16, 2009

Winter Solo  Sucess!

Done solo in 5 hour after the bivy in the tent at 3000m. Lots of hard ice on the last 200m and soft snow in the lower part of the ridge.

John Climber

John Climber - Jun 21, 2008 9:47 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2008

With snowshoes to the top  Sucess!

Me and Joker VK and another companion did it to the top in about 6 hours from the Weissmieshutte with snowshoes. There was a lot of snow on the whole ridge and we progresed thanks to the snowshoes, which became very tricky to descend from the top. The snow covered almost all of the rocky passages. Temperature was relatively high, despite the small snow fall that catched us when descending. We were 12 hours busy (5 hours to descend!). Unusual for june!

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