Dent d'Herens West ridge (Tieffmatten)

Approach

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* Jan 6, 2023 - Ownership switched by Antonio Giani
* Jan 6, 2023 - Page under review

Refuge Aosta is the starting point for the ascent (2.781m tel. 016540194). It is placed in a wild area placed at the head of Valpelline. Basicly it is the northern part of it between glacier de Tsan (north) and glacier des Grandes Murailles (east). There are two ways that permit to reach the hut: From Italy: From Aosta get into the valley of S. Bernardo first untill the village of Valpelline, and than turn right and thake the direction to lake of Place Moulin (1.968m), where a dike closes the valley and interrupts the paved road. From there, the easy path n° 10 takes to refuge Aosta (4/5 hours). From Switzerland: From cabane de la Dent Blanche through the Col de Valpelline (3.568m), or from Zermatt through Tiefmatten pass (3.585m). Both across glacier, not very advisable.

Route Description

Usually start the approach at 3 o'clock AM. Follow in the darkness the not very visible path,that bring you up to the foot of the lower glacier de Tsan. Go on to east direction and keep the direction close to the south wall of Tete de Valpelline on your left. When you see this wall ending in a carving lower than the rest, go towards it, and try to find same chains that helps to go across it. This is the Tiefmatten pass. From that point the beautiful shape of Dent D'Herens will be visible on east. Go all over the entire rocky ridge, not difficult but very exposed on both sides. At the end of the ridge,brobably long 150-200 meters,climb the ice slope (west flank of the mountain) that goes steeper and steeper (40° max). Remain on the right side of it and go straight to the rocky summit. Catch up easily the last passage that bring shortly to the summit of Dent d'Herens, which is (4.171m). From here a fantastic view to the west side of Matterhorn.

Essential Gear

High mountain gear. Helmets, rope, crampons, axe an icescrew.