West ridge

Page Type
Spain, Europe
Route Type:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
A long day
Rock Difficulty:
5.4 (YDS)

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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West ridge
Created On: Jul 8, 2008
Last Edited On: Jul 6, 2009


The west ridge is the best option to connect the summit of Pico de Alba (3118m) with the climb of Diente de Alba (3136m).

Getting There

The Collado inferior de Alba is the west col of the peak, but the normal route goes across the col East or Collado superior de Alba. Generally if you come from La Renclusa the normal route is the most frequented but as well it's possible to reach easily (F.) the collado inferior from the normal approach to the peak across collado de Paderna.

The interest of this route is connect Diente de Alba (3136m) with Pico de Alba (3118m) because the descent of normal route to collado de Paderna and the ascent to cols of Alba is very long.

To approach to Benasque and La Renclusa you can read the main page.

Route Description

West ridge of Diente de AlbaWest ridge

First rappelRappel #1
Second rappelRappel #2

From the summit of Pico de Alba (3118m):
You've reached the summit of Pico de Alba from La Besurta (normal, 4h) or from Cregüeña (5h).

You'll climb the first blocks of the ridge to the East (F.) descending to right side leaving the edge across an exposed rock-climb of I+ to reach the first rappel (small rope - cordino).

First rappel: 15 meters. An alternative if you don't want to make this rappel is an exposed descent of II to the second rappel. The expert rock-climbers generally don't use the rope in this section but it's very advisable because the fall is long.

Second rappel: 28 meters. To left side of the ridge across a perfect wall to make the rappel but it's very hard for the rock-climb (IV).

After the rappels you'll reach the collado inferior de Alba (3020m). This col is possible to reach from Cregueña (4h). On the col you'll attack the West ridge of Diente de Alba with different options. The easiest option goes near of left side of the ridge but the entry is on right side. The entry is a channel of stones (F.) to reach the chimney of II+ to go up to the ridge to left side. If you goes across the edge of the ridge you'll find a great block and a rock-climb of III and is better to find some little paths on the left wall of the ridge to evitate this complicated section. Finally after the blocks you'll turn to right side (II-) to enter on the ridge another time. The summit ridge is a nice climb of blocks (I+) with impressive views to both sides to reach the final block (II-) of the Diente de Alba (3136m).

For the descent you'll follow the East ridge (F.) of normal route to reach the collado superior de Alba (3080m).

Essential Gear

-2 ropes of 30m (or 1 of 60m) if you make a rappel from Pico de Alba. Harness. Helmet. Some carabineers. Some strings.
-In winter or early on the season (spring) is necessary the use of crampons and ice-axe.

External Links

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West ridge

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Diente de AlbaRoutes