Perfect weather, amazing rock quality. Tempted to solo, but with an 8.5mm and small rack it felt more secure at that altitude.
Camped at Young Lakes and started for the base at about 0330 hrs. Started 1st pitch at about 0530 hours and pitched out the first 3-4 pitches. Simul-climbed the rest. This is a long beautiful route that we had to ourselves that day. One party was doing the North Ridge, a route that I'll have to return to do. Lots of exposure on the West ridge if you stay on the ridge proper.
This is an awesome climb, although it was a long day for us doing car to car at Saddlebag Lake. We were also worried about the weather but lucked out. I'd love to do this one again and I'm definitely curious about North Ridge now!
Great climb, made it a 2-day trip by bivying at alpine lake so we could beat the crowds.
Soloed with my beautiful wife a couple days after our wedding, 5th time up the route and 3rd time solo. I swear this is the very best rock climb in the world. We ran into a group of 3 who climbed the nice-looking rib to the left, said they thought it was comparable in grade and quality to the west ridge itself.
Long day with a hike out in the dark... fun rock though!
Soloed W ridge and downclimb N ridge... this route is so good I came back 3 days later with a couple partners and repeated the solo traverse. On our way back down the N Ridge we were buzzed by a glider... cool!
linked up NW ridge of North peak, North ridge of Conness and West ridge of Conness in a day.
Car to car solo from Saddlebag Lake on a flawless summer day.
There was still snow in places between Alpine Lake and the summit plateau, and it was firm enough in the morning that I did not regret bringing an ice axe (left it on the summit plateau and picked it up on my way down).
Amazing exposure ! As usual, the register needs a new notebook (forgot to bring one this time).
Long approach... first time dropped into the W face higher up to race daylight, next time ('04?) stayed directly on the ridge all the way. Awesome exposure over SW face.
My first weekend of alpine lead climbing! Car-to-car in a day after leading Cathedral the day before. Solid rock, nice exposure, good company...aaah, I'm happy :)
Solid rock, great exposure. We belayed the first 3 pitches then simul-climbed the rest of the way. Had a great time. Car2car in a day with Tom and Jason C.
Linked this up with the North Ridge and the NW Ridge of North Peak.
August 9, 2006
First time up the West Ridge with D-Mac
Consolation prize as another team was on the Harding Route when we arrived. We ran up this, stashed our gear and returned the next day to bag the Harding Route.
I got lost in the dark, wore to many cloths, roped up on every pitch, and had a grand time.
I love every route on this mountain, especially the west ridge, which presents a challenging, remote, and beautiful approach. Thank you Eddie for leading the way. The summit register needs a new book if you are headed up there. :)
Soloed with Miguel. Finished in 1 hr 29 min. Last route of our North Peak NW Ridge -> Conness N Ridge -> Conness W Ridge linkup (all 3 routes in just under 11 hrs car-to-car). First Sierra climbing day!
Soloed w/ Will. This time did the route in 75 minutes. Part of our North Peak NW Ridge --> Conness N Ridge --> Conness W Ridge linkup (all 3 routes in just under 11 hrs car-to-car).