West Route Climber's Log

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Josh Lewis

Josh Lewis - Jun 19, 2011 5:44 pm Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2011

A bit scetchy when we went  Sucess!

We did this route without a rope and it was sketchy that day, the foot prints Gimpilator made were breaking way on me making it a bit more frightening. But besides the crux, it's a great route.


Redwic - Jun 14, 2011 5:00 pm Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2011

Enchantments Slam!  Sucess!

In a two-day span with great weather and great snow conditions, Gimpilator, Josh Lewis, and I summited Colchuck Peak, then Dragontail Peak, then Little Annapurna, and finally Enchantment Peak. Over 10000' of cumulative elevation gain!

We traversed from Colchuck Peak to Dragontail Peak on the first day. We got very lucky with conditions during that traverse. Above the SW Couloir of Dragontail Peak, we had to downclimb the steepest snow slope any of us had ever done. If the snow had been icier or powdery, considering we had no rope, it could have been treacherous. We lucked-out, and got through OK. Great views from the summit!

Important note for future summiters via this route: This SP page does not fully explain the location of the "notch" to the left of Pandora's Box. There is a saddle to the left of Pandora's Box, at the top of the southwest couloir. We descended directly down the left side of that 70-75 degree snow slope, but we do not necessarily recommend others to try the same technique. However, after our descent (when we looked back) and later confirmed after our trip, we discovered a not-so-obvious alternate option... shortly before reaching the top of the southwest couloir there is a gap next to the large rocky mass on the left side of the couloir gully. Apparently, there is way up and over that which is not near as steep as downclimbing the saddle like we did, but involves some Class 4 moves. We did not want to chance the Class 4 moves when intermixed with snow, and at least with the option we chose we could see the entire desired route down into the south basin and had the optimum snow conditions to do so. Others might not be so lucky. Pick your poison, if trying the west route with snowpack.

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