... for enlightening us. I tried to find this route once, but failed. It always struck me as a tricky little bugger.
Excellent write-up! When we took this route on a cold August 27 2006 there was steep hard snow in the "lower bowl". We descended from Ritter by the north face just to avoid going back down the snow.
Unless the weather is perfect, beware about trying to traverse the peak and descend via the west slope. If you think it's difficult finding the correct route on the ascent, try DESCENDING the route in a fog or whiteout. There are a dozen or more chutes that lead down the west slope, all of which end in cliffs except ONE (I know, because I've downclimbed all of them to the cliff at the bottom...)