Excellent write-up! When we took this route on a cold August 27 2006 there was steep hard snow in the "lower bowl". We descended from Ritter by the north face just to avoid going back down the snow.
Unless the weather is perfect, beware about trying to traverse the peak and descend via the west slope. If you think it's difficult finding the correct route on the ascent, try DESCENDING the route in a fog or whiteout. There are a dozen or more chutes that lead down the west slope, all of which end in cliffs except ONE (I know, because I've downclimbed all of them to the cliff at the bottom...)
Great instructions, thanks! If the snow is hard/icy as you start up the talus fan from the lake or in the lower bowl (like we encountered late July) you'll have to do some detours around edges, which can make finding the ramp to the right a bit harder. We had two less experienced climbers with us, and the ramp to them appeared harder than class 2 from the lower bowl, but wound up not being a problem.
Bob Burd - Sep 3, 2008 1:10 pm - Voted 10/10
Thanks...... for enlightening us. I tried to find this route once, but failed. It always struck me as a tricky little bugger.
Langenbacher - Sep 6, 2008 2:15 pm - Voted 10/10
Good Stuff!Excellent write-up! When we took this route on a cold August 27 2006 there was steep hard snow in the "lower bowl". We descended from Ritter by the north face just to avoid going back down the snow.
Sierra Ledge Rat - Aug 10, 2009 4:58 am - Hasn't voted
Descending...Unless the weather is perfect, beware about trying to traverse the peak and descend via the west slope. If you think it's difficult finding the correct route on the ascent, try DESCENDING the route in a fog or whiteout. There are a dozen or more chutes that lead down the west slope, all of which end in cliffs except ONE (I know, because I've downclimbed all of them to the cliff at the bottom...)
kkrugler - Aug 23, 2020 4:20 pm - Voted 9/10
Morning snow in talus fan & lower bowl can be icyGreat instructions, thanks! If the snow is hard/icy as you start up the talus fan from the lake or in the lower bowl (like we encountered late July) you'll have to do some detours around edges, which can make finding the ramp to the right a bit harder. We had two less experienced climbers with us, and the ramp to them appeared harder than class 2 from the lower bowl, but wound up not being a problem.