The description "straight forward and pretty easy" on this route page is very misleading.
Comments like: "Depending on conditions an ice axe may be all you need or crampons may be helpful later in the year" lead me to believe the route is not very steep. On the contrary, the upper part of the glacier must be at least 50-degrees - and it is exposed. You damn well better have ice ax and crampons with you unless you are roped and placing protection.
I've climbed quite a few glaciers and steep snow routes and expected this to be much easier based on the description in the route page. I attemped this route in hiking boots and strap-on crampons (plus an ice ax) which were woefully inadequate. Don't make the same mistake that I made. The route is straight forward but you definitely need mountaineering boots, crampons and ice ax for the upper part of the glacier.
Perhaps conditions were significantly different when you climbed or our perceptions are different. I too climbed the route in hiking boots and an old pair of SMC lace up crampons along with an ice axe. I climbed late in the year (October I think) when it was quite firm and remember about ten yards of the route where the route steepened and I watched my step. I would imagine if conditions were softer you could get by with an axe. My mountaineering exploits are rather modest compared to many SP regulars and I didnt feel especially threatened with my choice of equipment, thus my recommendation. I certainly didn't mean to mislead you.
I agree with you. I did it at the end of August this year with strap on Crampons on hiking boots but could have got by without them. A friend used approach shoes with micro spikes. There was also no steep part at the top this year. It was actually very mellow by the top of what is left of the glacier.
Alpinist - Aug 22, 2011 11:43 am - Voted 3/10
MisleadingThe description "straight forward and pretty easy" on this route page is very misleading.
Comments like: "Depending on conditions an ice axe may be all you need or crampons may be helpful later in the year" lead me to believe the route is not very steep. On the contrary, the upper part of the glacier must be at least 50-degrees - and it is exposed. You damn well better have ice ax and crampons with you unless you are roped and placing protection.
I've climbed quite a few glaciers and steep snow routes and expected this to be much easier based on the description in the route page. I attemped this route in hiking boots and strap-on crampons (plus an ice ax) which were woefully inadequate. Don't make the same mistake that I made. The route is straight forward but you definitely need mountaineering boots, crampons and ice ax for the upper part of the glacier.
zcando - Sep 1, 2011 6:45 pm - Hasn't voted
Sorry MisterPerhaps conditions were significantly different when you climbed or our perceptions are different. I too climbed the route in hiking boots and an old pair of SMC lace up crampons along with an ice axe. I climbed late in the year (October I think) when it was quite firm and remember about ten yards of the route where the route steepened and I watched my step. I would imagine if conditions were softer you could get by with an axe. My mountaineering exploits are rather modest compared to many SP regulars and I didnt feel especially threatened with my choice of equipment, thus my recommendation. I certainly didn't mean to mislead you.
MikeToffey - Oct 20, 2020 7:30 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Sorry MisterI agree with you. I did it at the end of August this year with strap on Crampons on hiking boots but could have got by without them. A friend used approach shoes with micro spikes. There was also no steep part at the top this year. It was actually very mellow by the top of what is left of the glacier.