Wetterhorn Peak (Colorado) Climber's Log

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Tim Jones

Tim Jones - Sep 20, 2005 8:02 am

Route Climbed: Standard Route Date Climbed: September 12 2005  Sucess!

With Jim Randa (from Boulder). Somewhat windy but

otherwise a beautiful day. The summit pitch was much

easier than I expected. By far the most interesting 14er I've done.

Michael Crofford

Michael Crofford - Sep 13, 2005 12:48 pm

Route Climbed: Matterhorn Creek Date Climbed: September 8, 2005  Sucess!

7th 14er. As everyone else says stay as close to the ridgeline as possible. The scattered rock cairns were not much help.


alpspitze - Aug 31, 2005 1:20 pm

Route Climbed: Standard Route from Matterhorn Creek Date Climbed: August 20, 2005  Sucess!

When you are from New England, these mountains are a treat!

5 hrs round trip including Matterhorn Peak.


IdahoSummits - Aug 31, 2005 10:13 am

Route Climbed: Matterhorn Creek Date Climbed: August 13, 2005  Sucess!

Wow! One of the coolest mountains I have been on. Great weather allowed us to head over and touch the top of Matterhorn Peak while in the area.


mntnplay - Aug 29, 2005 2:00 am

Route Climbed: matterhorn Creek Standard Date Climbed: 27 August 2005  Sucess!

3:00 up. We wandered onto the east side of the ridge on the ascent which added a little extra spice to the climb as we found the east side to be much looser than the top of the ridge. My two cents of advice: once you ascend to the ridge, stay close to the ridge on the west side. The initial view of peeking through the keyhole gave me a little pause; all I could see was the ramp and distant green fields. We'd gotten almost a quarter inch of snow at the trailhead during the night, so we carried our axes. Oddly enough, there was no evidence any new snow on the peak.


Gareth - Aug 9, 2005 11:03 pm

Route Climbed: Southeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 1, 2005  Sucess!

My second time on Wetterhorn. Followed the new CFI approach trail and was disappointed to find that it isn’t nearly as direct as the old one.


shanahan96 - Aug 4, 2005 5:56 pm

Route Climbed: Southeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 8, 2005  Sucess!

7/8/05- nice valley hike led us to the ridge. route finding up to the summit block was fun; i kept showing my partners the correct route then went searching for some challenging ways to climb up. summit block was solid and easy. nice views up top. climb this mountain!

6/3/07- climbed the east face w/nellis while jen and scott climbed the snow covered southeast ridge. got a great glissade off the lower ridge on the descent!

5/15/10- returned to the climb the east face w/steve. snow quality was much better this time around. our beautiful, bluebird day disappeared right below the summit block leaving us in a whiteout to finish things off. always a great adventure!



shknbke - Jul 19, 2005 1:30 am

Route Climbed: from Uncompahgre Date Climbed: 07/16/05  Sucess!

Wetterhorn is a special peak indeed. I did it after Uncompahgre as the weather held long enough to be on top at 1pm. Started at 11K below Nellie Creek 4wd trailhead and had my friend Pat pick me up below the Matterhorn 2wd trailhead. Incredible loop hike as long as the weather holds. Fun scrambling on the top and the exposure is well protected with solid holds.


doumall - Jul 13, 2005 3:20 pm

Route Climbed: Southeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 21, 2004  Sucess!

35th 14er!


illegal_smile - Jul 11, 2005 12:37 pm

Route Climbed: SE ridge Date Climbed: July 10, 2005  Sucess!

FUN! This mountain is great, seemed like I made it to the top in no time at all from the matterhorn TH. No problems at all, didn't even see anyone till we were coming down and heading over to uncompahgre. Beautiful weather and beautiful views. I think I would like to do wetterhorn, matterhorn and uncompahgre all in one day sometime soon!

Old Ickabod

Old Ickabod - Mar 28, 2005 9:11 pm

Route Climbed: Matterhorn Creek Trail - Southeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 2004  Sucess!

This has been my favorite 14er yet! I left the trailhead at 4am and my headlamp spied the eyes of several animals off the trail. Freaky, but they kept my pace brisk. The hike was an awesome mix of trail, boulderhopping, ridge scrambling, and an easy climb to the summit. I enjoyed sunrise all by myself on the summit at 7:30am. After leaving the summit, I continued on and summited Uncompahgre later that day. I was spent, but the 17.5 miles in one day was well worth it.


ColoradoScott - Feb 7, 2005 12:49 pm

Route Climbed: Southeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 23, 2003  Sucess!

After setting up camp about a mile west of the Matterhorn Creek Road and TH on Aug. 21st, I had hoped to climb this the on the 22nd. When I woke at 6:00 a.m. the monsoon clouds had me roll over in my sleeping bag and I decided to take it easy and drive over Engineer Pass into Ouray for lunch instead. I returned over Cinnamon Pass and back through Lake City during the storm. The rain and lightning finally ended and broke up before sundown.

The next morning, I woke and hit the trailhead by 7:00 a.m. and quickly proceeded up the trail. Being a Saturday, I expected more climbers, but only saw five others on Wetterhorn that day. The climber's trail that crosses the creek above timberline and heads west along the left side of the basin was marked with a cairn and the junction seemed logical to me, although I think many people stay on the main trail much higher before turning toward Wetterhorn. Although this trail does fade into a number of scree slopes and gullies below the SE ridge, it is helpful to climb on it if you can locate it.

It grew chilly on the ridge, so I added a layer on top, but was still in shorts on the legs. The route climbs up a semi-loose slope of brightly colored rock and the gets into the better defined ridge above. The route was more apparent than I thought it would be and finding the small keyhole above the Shark's Fin was marked with a cairn. The steep scramble on solid ledges above to the summit is a spectacular finish on a great mountain. Just be careful of sending rock missles onto anyone below. I topped out at 10:30 and fortunately had the summit to myself for twenty minutes when another climber, from Boulder, arrived. I spent 45 minutes on top and the two of us descended together, making excellent time and back to the TH by 1:15 p.m. The storm clouds let loose a half hour later. The cold beer in the cooler was a nice finish.


charles97 - Jan 28, 2005 2:07 pm

Route Climbed: Matterhorn Creek Date Climbed: September 9, 2004  Sucess!

Double bagging of Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre. #24 and #25. Gorgeous day, no problems with the climb except there was no one else on top to take a picture of me.

Larry V

Larry V - Jan 13, 2005 11:33 pm

Route Climbed: southeast ridge, Matterhorn Creak Trailhead Date Climbed: July 1996  Sucess!

Climbed late in day after conquering Uncompahgre in the morning. A beautiful mountain, and challenging climb.


climber46 - Sep 21, 2004 12:53 pm

Route Climbed: SE Ridge(standard route) Date Climbed: Sept 18, 2004  Sucess!

Despite marginal weather, I made the summit with a friend from Boulder, CO. I did not think this mountain was as hard as it is built up to be. Yes, you want to avoid falling, but there are so many steps and handholds that make it easy. Also, thanks to work by the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative in 2004, the Trail to Wetterhorn Peak is now clearly marked and easy to follow. There are even signs marking where the Wetterhorn trail junctions away from the main trail. Other former climber paths have been marked "Closed for Revegetation". Having one clearly marked trail will help preserve the tundra environment and also make it quicker and easier to gain the SE ridge of Wetterhorn.

All in all, a very nice hike!


sbkelley - Sep 9, 2004 12:55 am

Route Climbed: Southeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 2004  Sucess!

One of the most beautiful Fourteeners out there. Tanya and I especially liked the last summit pitch - pure fun! We also came across a guy smoking pot on the summit...I was wondering why he was talking to the marmot up there and once I smelled the smoke, it all made sense...I guess he made it down okay, though.


Saintgrizzly - Aug 10, 2004 9:30 pm

Route Climbed: Good question... Date Climbed: Late '70's (Whew!!)  Sucess!

High on the list of most people's favorite Colorado mountains, including me. I've only done the peak once, in the late '70's, and it may have been my first San Juan 14-er. Did the mountain with Aaron, and the unusual thing about this trip came about because at that time some access roads were still open that are now gone. We'd just purchased CJ's, and were big on trying out new roads--well, we took a winding back ridge road, eventually bringing us out on to a ridge overlooking the Wetterhorn south/southeast basin. (And what a stupendous view that particular perspective is!) From there we did the mountain, which was considerably shorter than the standard routes of today. The thing of interest, and we didn't realize this until some time later, is that the area had just been declared a wilderness area, we had taken a wrong turn onto an access road in such a manner so as to miss a closed gate (the "normal" entry point) maybe a hundred yards further on--in other words, we may actually have been driving in the wilderness, and were probably the last ones ever to use that particular road. We'd never have done such a thing knowingly, and even back then the fine would have been substantial--ignorance is bliss, and we lucked out. And the mountain was terrific!

Did Matterhorn two years ago (2002) with Aaron and Ellen. Nice views of Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre.


s_tuning@msn.com - Aug 9, 2004 9:23 pm

Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: August 9th, 2004  Sucess!

A beautiful climb. Rope was nice for the final pitch. Not highly technical at all, but a fall would be serious.


Gareth - Jul 24, 2004 11:18 pm

Route Climbed: Southeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 24, 2004  Sucess!

This one wound up being a battle for me! I made it to the top after climbing up the frost covered crux. Exciting climb, all by myself--had the whole upper mountain to myself.

I am signing this summit log in a internet cafe in Ouray :)


jrf - Jul 15, 2004 10:28 am

Route Climbed: South Ridge (sort of) Date Climbed: July 3, 2004  Sucess!

Amazing climb. We actually went pretty far over towards Matterhorn Peak and then headed up grassy slopes and snow back over to the south ridge. This route is sort of in the Roach book but I think we went farther east than he suggests. There is a trail in between the two creeks that I think we were meant to find instead.

Last section got my attention but not nearly as bad as I expected. The ledges were very solid.

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