Whiskey Bill

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climbing
Time Required:
Less than two hours

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Whiskey Bill
Created On: Aug 3, 2002
Last Edited On: Aug 3, 2002


Use the same approach as 'Buggery On The High Seas'. Whiskey Bill is located approx. 50 yards downhill from 'Buggery'.

Route Description

The start of Whiskey Bill begins as the skirt of Wamello's South Face turns 'right' into a gully/recess. Look for bolts leading up the rounded end of the face. The 1st pitch (if began directly under the first bolt) starts with solid 5.8 friction. Continue up to more featured terrain (small recesses, chickenheads, pockets) where 5 more bolts are encountered. A two bolt belay is provided. The 2nd pitch is short (70 feet?) and passes 3 bolts on the way to a two bolt belay. Pitch #3 goes up interesting yet playful 5.6 granite for aprrox. 90 to 100 feet (5 bolts) to two FAT rap bolts. Some questions may arise when one looks 20 feet higher only to find a natural belay eager to take medium sized gear. Nevertheless, the next pitch goes up and to the right. This pitch takes pro to 1/2" and passes 3 bolts on the way. The pitch finishes to the right of the "Green Monster" (a right facing wall with green lichen on it). Belay on a ledge (two bolts) just below a shallow, right facing corner (small pro) in the middle of a "slab alley". Follow the corner up to the summit (100 feet). There are some rap bolts that can be used as a belay. As a side note, these "summit" bolts WERE NOT placed by the first ascensionists. The same holds true for the rap bolts at the end of pitch 3.

Essential Gear

Draws, slings and pro to 1" (nuts and small cams are helpful). A 60 meter rope should be used as well.

Miscellaneous Info

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