Whiteman Falls, WI 6

  • Whiteman Falls, IV, WI 6/ 95 meters.
  • The first pitch starts directly over the small flat staging area next to the wall that is Red Man Soars. It offers a variety of mushroom formations, the most interesting of which (photos) offered us a cool problem. The ladies seemed to take a split stance before pulling the roof. I did a full on heel hook which is very colorful by my standards. In any regard, it is quite obvious where the second pitch begins. We snared a slight hanging belay spot at the lower right corner of the top pillar. Move out left and climb the straight vertical 2nd pitch to the top.

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    Turbo

    Turbo - Jan 29, 2007 9:24 pm - Voted 10/10

    Cool.

    Now that looks a lot more fun than the history class I'm sitting in. Nice.

    Diggler

    Diggler - Jan 30, 2007 12:09 am - Voted 10/10

    That's what I call stemming!

    Nice shot & very nice lead. You could practically sit on those ice bulges for a belay stance! How is it, though, that a 2-pitch route is a grade IV? Seems like that would make something like Widow's Tears or Bridalveil Falls Grade VI or VII- El Cap or Baffin Island!

    Dow Williams

    Dow Williams - Jan 30, 2007 2:15 am - Hasn't voted

    Re: That's what I call stemming!

    Will let you take that up with Joe Josephson, author of “Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the Canadian Rockies”. Well known and respected guide book author regarding waterfall ice on both sides of the border. I just climb the stuff. Cheers.

    Diggler

    Diggler - Jan 30, 2007 6:39 pm - Voted 10/10

    Re: That's what I call stemming!

    Just talked with Joey. Good man & excellent ice climber. He said he mistyped after a late night completing that section of the guide- something about staying up too late & too many Beavertail Raspberry Ales ;)

    Dow Williams

    Dow Williams - Jan 30, 2007 11:54 pm - Hasn't voted

    Re: That's what I call stemming!

    you sound like old bed fellows....I like Raspberry Ale as well, but try to keep a low profile on that one....I believe he does a better job than most, sober or not...cheers

    Deb

    Deb - Jan 30, 2007 12:42 am - Voted 10/10

    Sweet!

    Intense shot!

    rpc

    rpc - Jan 30, 2007 1:08 am - Voted 10/10

    Wow!

    WI6 eh??!!! Hard CORE & a great shot!

    Dow Williams

    Dow Williams - Jan 30, 2007 2:17 am - Hasn't voted

    Re: Wow!

    Actually Radek, this pitch is considered WI 4+, the next pitch pitch is what makes this route a WI 6. Climbing in St. George as I type, Stacy and I are out every day. Just got back from a 5.10b fest at Black Rocks. Cheers.

    rpc

    rpc - Jan 30, 2007 5:24 pm - Voted 10/10

    Re: Wow!

    "Climbing in St. George as I type, Stacy and I are out every day."

    you killin' me Dow ;)
    Sun & sandstone vs. cubicle & a lock-down for me.

    Dow Williams

    Dow Williams - Jan 30, 2007 11:50 pm - Hasn't voted

    Re: Wow!

    Just got off a fun trad route in Snow Canyon with "gramps" on SP(really a young man from Salt Lake). This "Plans and Partners" thing actually works. Your computer guy slamming his head against his keyboard is quite the description of your pain.....escape Radek!

    Kat

    Kat - Jan 30, 2007 2:15 am - Voted 10/10

    Yikes!

    Way to work out those inner thighs. :)
    Make a wish. :) Very nice!

    MoapaPk

    MoapaPk - Jan 30, 2007 4:37 am - Voted 10/10

    nice split

    Always appreciate flexibility.

    climbxclimb

    climbxclimb - Jan 30, 2007 4:38 am - Voted 10/10

    Nice!

    Great action picture!

    Peak Freak

    Peak Freak - Jan 30, 2007 7:53 am - Voted 10/10

    Wow!!!

    Great shot! Sweet stuff, Dow.

    EB

    julesblaidd

    julesblaidd - Jan 30, 2007 8:48 am - Voted 10/10

    Nice

    Great photo ! It could be very good climbing !

    tarol

    tarol - Jan 30, 2007 3:00 pm - Voted 10/10

    Ouch

    Great shot!

    nimbis

    nimbis - Jan 30, 2007 3:34 pm - Hasn't voted

    Yeah:)

    Thats awesome!!

    pvalchev

    pvalchev - Mar 19, 2007 11:23 pm - Voted 10/10

    Lynette

    Lynette is styling as usual, she is an SP star. Just did the climb (I led first pitch, Hedd-wyn gunned the dead vertical pillar) on Saturday, what a wild piece of ice!

    rhyang

    rhyang - Mar 20, 2007 3:21 am - Voted 10/10

    Re: Lynette

    Lynette sounds like a serious ropegun - nice shot of her here. Good to hang out with ya dude :)

    Dow Williams

    Dow Williams - Mar 20, 2007 3:00 pm - Hasn't voted

    Re: Lynette

    Lynette is one of the best young female climbers in the biz and one of the best all around technique climbers I have ever been around. Unfortuantly she hurt her knee on this climb, Whitemans, and has not been on ice since. I look forward to getting her down to Zion for some sun healing. I know it is working on my back. That is why Beckey hangs out here no doubt. Peter, JC and Adam are coming down here in April, you ought to see about hitching a ride if you can get away. Cheers.

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