Whitney Glacier Route

Whitney Glacier Route

Mount Shasta - Whitney Glacier Route. V1 variant traverses beneath the upper icefall and crosses the bergschrund to access Misery Hill above Casval Ridge and the Red Banks. Photo taken January 19, 2007
on Jan 22, 2007 2:13 am
Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing
Image ID: 263031


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rhyang - Jan 22, 2007 3:05 am - Hasn't voted


The pic seems to show one possible route. Strictly speaking by heading up over the bergschrund to the top of Casaval Ridge / the Red Banks you skip the last part of the Whitney Glacier, which ascends the 'backside' of Misery Hill.

There is a route page for the Whitney Glacier here.

btw When did you climb this route ?


MtnAv8r - Jan 22, 2007 4:08 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Hmm...

Attempted route about 8 years ago. Turned back by rockfall below the lower icefall. Goal is to complete this route this year. Thanks for the tip on bypassing the schrund and misery hill.

Zzyzx - Jan 22, 2007 8:20 am - Voted 10/10

Re: Hmm...

I second what Rob said. Please, attach it to the route page, so it can be easily found by anyone interested.
You may want to add to the route page a description of the approach to the base camp. We started at Northgate, camped below Bolam glacier and then traversed to Whitney glacier, but I know this isn't the standard approach to the route (although probably easier).
Nice photo. Looking forward to more of your pics!
Cheers, Kris


MtnAv8r - Jan 25, 2007 4:05 am - Hasn't voted


Updated route per information provided by rhyang. The route I attempted in 99 would have concluded with V1, however as rhyang has noted, this bypasses the upper glacier and joins another route.

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