Great route! Sparse pro on upper pitches! First two pitches are just plain fun and rock quality superb. I was a little misled by reports and thought the upper pitches, 3 & 4, were much more difficult. May have been a bit off route I guess. Simulclimbed last pitch, rope was not necessary, 5.easy, possibly fourth class. Third pitch almost made me poop my pants.
Mary and I climbed this route on a weekend trip to the Eastern Sierra and it was absolutely stellar. The approach was a bit annoying, but the route more than made up for it with sustained and interesting climbing on every pitch. The climbing on P2 before the roof was particularly good and amazingly exposed. Lots of intricate climbing on the upper pitches with some tricky and sometimes widely spaced gear. We managed to wind our way down on mostly 3rd class terrain back to the road. This climb is definitely worthy of more attention and deserving of classic status.
I made two trips up there with Craig Peer and Co. in the mid 80s. On the first trip we did an old Becky route on El Segundo Buttress. It was Craig, Mike Meng, Myself, and I think I'm forgetting someone! Anyway, I believe we got off route somewhere, or at least thought we had, but managed to summit anyway, swapping leads as we went. On the second trip, Tom Granneman, Leslie, Sonia, and I went up Premier Buttress to free the old bolt ladder, ( homemade aluminium hangers ), on the Becky route. It had previously been freed, I believe at 5.10+ As I recall, the rest of the route, although somewhat historical even back then, was a little less than stellar.
A Really cool route. Climbed with Lynn Bowering. Liked it so much I came back the following year and did it again with Guyzo Keesee. Some thin face moves get you to a fantastic splitter crack...
Alan Bartlett and I climbed 2 2-pitch routes on the Candlelight Buttress side of the canyon. They were in the 5.8-5.10 range on excellent rock.
Iclimbed this great route with Bob Cable. The first two pitches of this route climbed a thin spliter finger crack, thank god for the knobs that dot the route. There are rap anchors after the short third pitch but you need 2 60m ropes to get off from here. We took it to the top, the last two pitches wer'nt of the same quality as the first two. We decended down the west side.
This route is a fabulous,Sierra route without the typical Sierra approach. After a short 45 minute approach Bob Cable and I were at the base of 1000 ft. plus Whitney Portal Buttress. Eleven pitches later we were on the summit. This route is a bit sporty, but the climbing was great. Expect long runnouts on the slabby pitches with very few 1/4" bolts , but all the crux sections had some pro. 14 hours car to car.
Did this wild route with Duncan Laing. 3 words describe it - hard, long and interesting. Don't screw up on the descent like we did ( rappelling from a single manzanita bush on a blank wall - not recommended )!
Climbed this route with Duncan Laing. A fun and enjoyable climb!
An interesting Fred Beckey special..........