Sept. 18, 2017 From Twin Lakes climbed with Rick B. We setup an overnight bivy in Spiller Creek Canyon and climbed the next day. We climbed directly up the chockstone chute from the bench and avoided traversing across the other chutes. Fun scramble through the chockstone and up to the summit. Especially liked the sidewalk near the summit.
This is one of those peaks where researching the route really pays off. Everything went as planned. No surprises.
Going later in the season will most likely insure that the chockstone/tunnel isn't clogged with snow.
From Twin Lakes with Todd, Jim, and Chris. Very fun climbing in a nice area. Fairly long day.
Got a bit off route by going up a cute too far west. After reaching the crest we realized our error and descended before traversing into the correct chute and going up the standard route. The chockstone was fun to burrow through and the climb was not anything overly scary or difficult. Overall, a fine peak indeed!
Chockstone was passable, but I took the Chute #2 apex variation to ridge traverse on the way up. I know the route description says topping out on Chute #2 is class 3, but it seemed to me that the last move or two before the chute-top was class 4 (a narrow crack up an otherwise smooth slab, with one flake for a handhold).
I think Chute #2 in general is more interesting (but hardly more difficult) than #1, except near the top. There's an easy place to traverse from #1 to #2 about halfway up--which is a nice alternative, since the first chute is basically just class 2.
I set off to climb Whorl Mountain from Horse Creek Pass at 10:42 am, after having climbed Matterhorn. I had no trouble locating the correct chutes and passages across the various chutes, but after I located the chockstone chute I faced lots of route finding issues: the chockstone passage was clogged with snow, so I had to find an alternative. My alternative route was to go back to chute #2 and climb it to its apex (class 4). I then did a downward traverse of the West face of Whorl on some sandy ledges, ultimately finding a chute that led upwards to a snow-filled gap just North of the summit. From slightly below the gap, one can find exposed and insecure right-leaning class 3 ledges to the summit. I reached the summit at 13:55 pm. I found no summit register, only a Ziploc bag under a rock containing some papers and register entries. I left the summit around 14:10 pm and was back in camp at 16:16 pm (camp to summit, it was a 5:34 hour ascent).
Reading Secor's book it is apparent I did not gain the summit ridge immediately upon cresting chute #2, as would have been the case had I gone under the chockstone in chute #3. This caused me to have to traverse the West face, as described above. Overall this was a very interesting route that causes the mountaineer to work hard and do some creative problem solving.
Climbed with Jeff. No issues of chutes finding. It is a beautiful peak, but be cautious of loose rocks under chockstone.
We didn't have too much trouble with the routefinding after reviewing the pictures on the SP page here. The chockstone was pretty cool with the all of the twisting and turning you have to do to make your way through the back of it. We also climbed Matterhorn afterwards which made for a long day.
A good challenging route find. Attempted to climb this peak with a team of four but encountered rockfall while climbing behind the chockstone. One of our climbers was injured and we stopped the ascent at that point.
Barely made this one. Route finding was a little tricky, but the climb itself was fairly easy for a mountaineers peak. After summiting it started to snow, our hopes to bag Matterhorn were dashed and we headed back to base camp where it snowed about 1.5 feet overnight. Made the hike out interesting, but we had a blast!
After Matterhorn, for day 1 of the Sierra Challenge. Surprisingly fun, though I missed the chockstone tunnel. Trip report.
Fun cl. 3 climb
Vitaliy and I attempted to day-hike this but after climbing Snake Dike the day before. We accidentally slept in to 7am in the back of my luxuriously Suburban and got a late start. We ended up calling the climb off at the col just pass Matterhorn, we ended up day hiking several unnamed peaks in the area and driving back to SF that night.
Fun climb with an interesting route. Left from Twin Lakes and camped overnight by a tarn at the base of the mountain.
Up from camp at Horse Creek Pass. Really fun climb and great views.
Really enjoyed the route finding and scenery on this one. Camped at the lake south of Horse Creek Pass and climbed this in the morning after visiting Matterhorn the day before.
Climbed Whorl and Mattehorn on the same weekend with a group of PCSers.
Solo day hike out of Twin Lakes. Fun climb.
We dayhiked it from Twin Lakes crossing Horse Creek Pass. The routefinding was a bit tricky. I think we crossed from Chute #1 to Chute #2 too high but we were (surprisingly) following another party. From Chute #2 to Chute #3 through the chockstone, and then to the summit, the climb was fascinating.
Clmbed SE face in a sleep-deprived state and still managed to pick up the formidable Horse Creek Peak as a bonus!