We dayhiked it from Twin Lakes crossing Horse Creek Pass. The routefinding was a bit tricky. I think we crossed from Chute #1 to Chute #2 too high but we were (surprisingly) following another party. From Chute #2 to Chute #3 through the chockstone, and then to the summit, the climb was fascinating.
Clmbed SE face in a sleep-deprived state and still managed to pick up the formidable Horse Creek Peak as a bonus!
With the 2007 Sierra Challenge gang
Climbed Whorl and Matterhorn with a great group of guys from the Sierra Challenge. See Trip Report
Climbed with a contingent of 6 as part of the 2007 Sierra Challenge (most, or some at least, did the Doodad). Fun scrambling in the chutes and particularly through the chockstone. Grand views.
Solo climbed the SE Face from Miller Lake during a 10-day backpacking trip from Leavitt Meadows to Toulumne Meadows. Beautiful and solitary hike up Spiller Canyon from the PCT (12-miles RT). I managed to get off route and climbed left of the first chute on a rib that semed more like Class 4 than Class 3. I reached the ridgetop well left of the chockstone, realized my mistake and had to do some low Class 5 climbing to transition from the west side of the ridge back to the east side. (Photo here.) I finally found the chockstone and finished the climb on route. If you find a pair of sunglasses on the summit, those are (were) mine.
Beautiful dayhike out of Twin Lakes. Tagged Matterhorn Peak on the return as well.
Great climb, perfect weather! Thanks to MWetters for the great routefinding and encouragement. They should really just make one trail out there--it would be way less damaging to the environment, and a lot easier on climbers. :-)
Monty, Mike Riepe, and I climbed the SE Face route yesterday, after camping out near Horse Creek Pass. The weather was gloomy but the climb was fun. Thanks to Richard Steele for the excellent route description.
Climbed with my buddy Myron - fun route! Especially liked the "secret stairway" thru chockstone. Saw golden Eagle soaring on ridge during ascent
Skip the trip reports; the best part of this peak is the quirky route and working through it "on sight".
My 2d attempt, this time successful
trip report here
Wow, what a fantastic peak! Perhaps my favourite mountain to date... this was like a breath of fresh air after a Stanton-Virginia slog the day before.
Another peak, another epic.
Etsuko (my girlfriend), Matthew and I started this as a day-hike from the Twin Lakes parking lot at 6am. Weather forecasters predicted mostly sunny day with 20% precipitation. In my opinion, these people should be "shot" :). Approximately half way up, clouds rolled in and it started raining. At this point, Etsuko decided that getting soaked and cold (we only brought very light clothes with us) is not worth it for her and she turned back while Matthew and I (with the trash bag over me for the water protection) pressed on hoping for the best. As we got to the Horse Creek pass, weather seemed to hold and improved for the better. Hopeful, we continued to traverse around the peak in order to get into the chutes. I was relieved to finally start climbing after the long approach. Chute #1 was quite loose and not very fun. As we were reaching its top, it started raining again. This time rain was short and we resumed into the chute #2. This is where the real fun begins! We quickly made our way to the chute #3 on excellent rock, found the 'easy sandy traverse' (per Bob Burd) and squeezed ourselves under the infamous chokestone. As we gained the summit ridge, weather turned really bad again. We waited for a half an hour under the hailstorm and thunder in the narrow chimney ~100 feet below the summit. Fortunately weather gave us a chance and cleared out for 15 minutes, just enough for us to tag the summit and run back down. After getting hailed/rained on (again) near the Horse Creek pass on the way down, we safely made it back to the car at 7:30pm, with the last light.
This was a more impressive peak then I originally thought it would be. The route (SE chute #2 - class 3) and summit were very fun. Climbing through the chockstone was a blast.
2002 Sierra Mountaineers Challenge
Day 1 of the 2002 Mountaineers Challenge. Dayhiking from Twin Lakes, 5 of us made it to the summit under beatiful weather (though the views were a bit smokey) in a little over 6hrs. Exciting class 3 climbing up chute #2 since we didn't traverse far enough to reach the class 2 chute #1. Trip Report.