Whorl Mountain Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 37

Deb - Aug 23, 2021 10:12 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2021

Soggy Solo Slog  Sucess!

With a 30% chance of rain and "lovely" smoke, I made the slog and scramble chute to chute to chockstone with no navigational issues. Pretty fun other than rain starting just as I entered the tunnel on ascent. Short stay on summit with lots of thunder as I downclimbed the tunnel; creepy! Slog and jog out for a decent day in the Sierra.


LincolnB - Oct 24, 2020 3:26 pm Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2020

Standard route  Sucess!

Chute 1 to 2 to 3 to chockstone to walkway. On the return, chute 3 all the way down. One of the more interesting SPS climbs -


Travissmith2251 - Aug 23, 2019 10:03 pm

Summit  Sucess!

Great route finding


BobD3 - Oct 4, 2016 8:47 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2016

From the tarn at Horse Creek Pass.  Sucess!

This is one of those peaks where researching the route really pays off. Everything went as planned. No surprises.
Going later in the season will most likely insure that the chockstone/tunnel isn't clogged with snow.


Fairweather - Oct 18, 2015 11:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2015

SE Face Day hike  Sucess!

From Twin Lakes with Todd, Jim, and Chris. Very fun climbing in a nice area. Fairly long day.


wmolland - Sep 22, 2015 10:50 am Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2015

SE face  Sucess!

Got a bit off route by going up a cute too far west. After reaching the crest we realized our error and descended before traversing into the correct chute and going up the standard route. The chockstone was fun to burrow through and the climb was not anything overly scary or difficult. Overall, a fine peak indeed!


CWessels - Jul 30, 2015 2:31 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2015

SE Face  Sucess!

Chockstone was passable, but I took the Chute #2 apex variation to ridge traverse on the way up. I know the route description says topping out on Chute #2 is class 3, but it seemed to me that the last move or two before the chute-top was class 4 (a narrow crack up an otherwise smooth slab, with one flake for a handhold).

I think Chute #2 in general is more interesting (but hardly more difficult) than #1, except near the top. There's an easy place to traverse from #1 to #2 about halfway up--which is a nice alternative, since the first chute is basically just class 2.


Romain - Jun 29, 2015 6:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2015

Southeast face to West face variation (cl. 4)  Sucess!

I set off to climb Whorl Mountain from Horse Creek Pass at 10:42 am, after having climbed Matterhorn. I had no trouble locating the correct chutes and passages across the various chutes, but after I located the chockstone chute I faced lots of route finding issues: the chockstone passage was clogged with snow, so I had to find an alternative. My alternative route was to go back to chute #2 and climb it to its apex (class 4). I then did a downward traverse of the West face of Whorl on some sandy ledges, ultimately finding a chute that led upwards to a snow-filled gap just North of the summit. From slightly below the gap, one can find exposed and insecure right-leaning class 3 ledges to the summit. I reached the summit at 13:55 pm. I found no summit register, only a Ziploc bag under a rock containing some papers and register entries. I left the summit around 14:10 pm and was back in camp at 16:16 pm (camp to summit, it was a 5:34 hour ascent).

Reading Secor's book it is apparent I did not gain the summit ridge immediately upon cresting chute #2, as would have been the case had I gone under the chockstone in chute #3. This caused me to have to traverse the West face, as described above. Overall this was a very interesting route that causes the mountaineer to work hard and do some creative problem solving.


mengbo - Aug 25, 2014 2:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2014

SE face  Sucess!

Climbed with Jeff. No issues of chutes finding. It is a beautiful peak, but be cautious of loose rocks under chockstone.


cab - Aug 18, 2014 1:21 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2014

SE Face  Sucess!

We didn't have too much trouble with the routefinding after reviewing the pictures on the SP page here. The chockstone was pretty cool with the all of the twisting and turning you have to do to make your way through the back of it. We also climbed Matterhorn afterwards which made for a long day.


WayneFry - Sep 10, 2013 12:15 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2013

SE Face

A good challenging route find. Attempted to climb this peak with a team of four but encountered rockfall while climbing behind the chockstone. One of our climbers was injured and we stopped the ascent at that point.


WayneFry - Oct 4, 2017 3:10 pm

Re: SE Face

Sept. 18, 2017 From Twin Lakes climbed with Rick B. We setup an overnight bivy in Spiller Creek Canyon and climbed the next day. We climbed directly up the chockstone chute from the bench and avoided traversing across the other chutes. Fun scramble through the chockstone and up to the summit. Especially liked the sidewalk near the summit.


craig512 - Aug 2, 2013 12:27 am Date Climbed: Oct 21, 2012

Great climb  Sucess!

Barely made this one. Route finding was a little tricky, but the climb itself was fairly easy for a mountaineers peak. After summiting it started to snow, our hopes to bag Matterhorn were dashed and we headed back to base camp where it snowed about 1.5 feet overnight. Made the hike out interesting, but we had a blast!


seano - Aug 11, 2012 9:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012

Standard route  Sucess!

After Matterhorn, for day 1 of the Sierra Challenge. Surprisingly fun, though I missed the chockstone tunnel. Trip report.


dshoshone - Jul 31, 2012 5:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2012

SE Face  Sucess!

Fun cl. 3 climb

Shane Rathbun

Shane Rathbun - Dec 6, 2010 3:43 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010

Long approach

Vitaliy and I attempted to day-hike this but after climbing Snake Dike the day before. We accidentally slept in to 7am in the back of my luxuriously Suburban and got a late start. We ended up calling the climb off at the col just pass Matterhorn, we ended up day hiking several unnamed peaks in the area and driving back to SF that night.


ckerth - Sep 2, 2010 8:48 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2010

SE Face  Sucess!

Fun climb with an interesting route. Left from Twin Lakes and camped overnight by a tarn at the base of the mountain.


mdougherty - Aug 27, 2010 3:46 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2010

SE Face  Sucess!

Up from camp at Horse Creek Pass. Really fun climb and great views.


mrchad9 - Jun 13, 2010 8:07 pm Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2008

Spectacular Mountain  Sucess!

Really enjoyed the route finding and scenery on this one. Camped at the lake south of Horse Creek Pass and climbed this in the morning after visiting Matterhorn the day before.


gjonbelay - Mar 24, 2009 4:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 1999

SE Face July 18 1999  Sucess!

Climbed Whorl and Mattehorn on the same weekend with a group of PCSers.

Trip Report

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